Emotionally today was a complex day…the first such day on the Camino Primitivo so far.
Weather perfect, walking strongly, physical issues ok, mostly nice countryside…walked 32.7 kms which is honestly a little hard…but…
First 15-16 kms a carbon copy of most days so far…very enjoyable countryside with a nice mix of forest walking and some country roads. The next 7-8 kms the Black Cloud emerged and then the final 8 or so kms I would say were mostly enjoyable.
Black Cloud - we knew that we were going to join up with the Camino Frances in Melide. In 2022 in excess of 300,000 pilgrim/walkers will walk the Camino Frances a number of them the last 100 kms only.
I thought I was mentally ready for this however in and around 15-16 kms we started walking on a busy road into Melide. Absolutely dreadful…boring walking…so the Black Cloud crept in and the mental energy simply decreased rapidly.
To boot an actual black cloud appeared in the sky. I am convinced I conjured up the black cloud alla Harry Potter style!
To back up a bit our breakfast was not the best…
It was a little chilly and dark when we started…
We had planned a rest stop around 10 km or so however no bar/cafe appeared so I ate my apple and had a tiny croissant.
Sometime on the road walk I noticed my left fancy Gossamer Gear trekking pole was slipping ie it had become way too short . I tried to fix this but couldn’t and concluded that what was just 5 minutes ago a great piece of equipment was now a piece of 💩!
I asked Paulo for help (When this black cloud mood hits I know very well that others around me will be much better at resolving my issues…it happens fairly frequently at home 🤔) Paulo quickly solved my problem…I had forgotten how to tighten the poles…it happens to the best of us when the black cloud appears.
Trekking poles were once again in the good books.
We entered Melide and followed the many pilgrim walkers hoping to find pulpo and stopped at a bar. Paulo ordered what he could…fries and pizza and this is what we received…pathetic!
So for 20+ kms this was the sum total of the fuel boost… So to add to the black cloud ☁️ I was “hangry”.
As we sat eating our “meal” we noticed the many, many pilgrim/walkers going by…my oh my what a difference from the Camino Primitivo!
We finished and started walking and immediately noticed how different the pilgrim walkers were…AirPods, 4-5 abreast not allowing you to pass, tiny backpacks meaning they are having bags carried etc.
All this may seem trivial however it all contributed to the black cloud. My personal opinion is that there is absolutely no right way to walk a Camino…all ways are fair and I commend anyone who ventures out with whatever support they need however at this moment that frankly was not my thinking.
The black cloud started to lift a few kms past Melide as we entered nice forest paths and totally disappeared when we finally stopped for a bite to eat with about 7-8 kms to go.
Paulo and I compared notes over a cerveza once the walk was completed and found that we both had very similar experiences. We have two short days into Santiago de Compostela of 20 or so kms. We looked at today as a transition day and will both work to change our thinking to a ensure a fun finish to what has been a very enjoyable Camino Primitivo!
I know the above “black cloud” scenario happens to all of us in different ways in everyday life…Camino walking is no different.
As to stats we walked 32.7 kms over 6 hours 20 minutes for an average walking speed of 5.1 kms slightly better than yesterday. Elevation gains were 602 meters with elevation losses of 839 meters for a total of 1,441 meters. A pretty big day!
To boot Paulo had a pretty rough night with some leg cramping and a frightening experience with a dangerous animal…I’m pretty sure I heard some Brazilian swearing…not the best picture but a spider was on him apparently…
Some of our pilgrim friends are now the walking wounded…Gabriel has suffered bad shin splints and is hoping to make it into Santiago on the 27th or 28th, Syp we are not sure as he had leg issues a few days ago and Jaroslav this morning was nursing a knee issue…hope he is ok.
We see a number of pilgrim walkers with blue tape running around knee caps, down the legs etc I can’t recall this from previous Caminos…must be a new form of injury relief.
Today in my non black cloud moments (remember only about 1/3rd of day 😁) I thought how fantastic my rain defences have been…dry sacs where gear is stored, big plastic bag in backpack where everything is sealed in and of course the Packa!
All have worked perfectly!!! Now if you look at this with a glass half empty approach you might say “Guy give your head a shake…it hasn’t rained once”. However if you look at this with a glass half full approach I am thinking that all is dry and the defences taken has resulted in no rain 🌧.
So I feel great 👍 about my rain defences!!!
Tomorrow 21 kms to O Pedrouzo and then the final day to Santiago de Compostela!!!
A few pictures from the day…note the two shoe pictures are the right and left shoes on different mojons 😂
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| Rest after a long day - black cloud long gone |
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