Started my 8th Camino route…Paulo plans 9th in 2026! A brief summary…Via Jacobi - Switzerland, Via Gebennensis - France, Via Podiensis - France, Camino Frances - Spain, Camino Finisterre - Spain, Camino Portuguese- Portugal/Spain, Camino Primitivo - Spain and now Camino San Salvador - Spain. When completed estimate 3,400+ kms over 122 walking days.
A very peaceful walk…did not meet a single pilgrim walker all day! I knew before starting this would be a quiet Camino however it was still somewhat surprising.
Perfect weather again…I was concerned heading into today as I was feeling rundown over the rest days in Santiago de Compostela however I walked very well.
After a walk like the Camino Primitivo getting low on energy should not have been surprising reflecting on this past walk.
- Camino Primitivo is normally walked somewhere between 12 - 14 days…we chose to do it in 12 days.
- Avg 26.25 kms per day or in FitBit terms (.7 meters per step) ~ 37,500 steps per day
- Avg 610 meters elevation gain per day or in FitBit terms (3 meters elevation gain = 1 story) ~ 203 stories climbed per day
- Avg 647 meters elevation loss per day or in FitBit terms (3 meters elevation loss = 1 story) ~ 216 stories descended per day
So I should accept that feeling run down 😥 is totally normal…especially for an old guy.
Today was a fairly long day at 27.6 kms over 5 hrs 40 minutes or an average pace of 4.9 kms per hour. It was pretty easy walking over forest/gravel roads (except for last 5 km) as the elevation gains and losses were low at 421 meters gained and 278 meters descent.
I started walking shortly before 7:30 so still dark and it was pretty chilly!
Now you will notice my headlamp has a red glow and not white! This was NOT intended however no way no how could I get a white light shining for the longest of time.
There is only ONE button to push on my fancy Petzl headlamp… NO instructions came with the headlamp. I went online at home to test out the various lights. I thought I would remember while walking however sigh 😔 another one of these “I should have paid more attention to instructions”
Now that I am in the Pension Mundo I press the button - one white light, press again second white light, press a third time both lights are now bright…press fourth time they turn off.
Ok perfect for tomorrow BUT how and why did I get the red light this morning? A Camino mystery!
I downloaded Enders Wikilocs Bergenzi river trail tracks for Day 1. Very glad I did…even though a lot of effort has been made to place arrows at key points I found the Wikiloc tracks to be invaluable a number of times…especially walking alone.
Ender is a legend on the Camino San Salvador as I understand he had almost single handedly resurrected the Camino San Salvador including writing an extensive PDF guide!
Just a few of Enders trail markings
While there were some nice views today they were far from being spectacular. I am totally ok walking days like this…find it very relaxing (except for last 5 kms mostly on asphalt…that was ugly!)
The sign below outlined a choice between a 6 km non road dirt paths or 5 kms mostly asphalt…chose the later but would choose differently if there is a next time.
Around 1:30 or so came upon first bar so stopped for a bite to eat…ordered an Aquarius Naranja drink and I thought an empanada…clearly my Spanish failed me very very badly on the empanada and I left quite hungry but not “hangry” as I thought this was all funny! Two tiny chicken thighs!
Somewhere along the trail I came across brightly coloured boxes in the bush (see picture below…zoom in) which I suspect were beehives. What else could they be?
I considered going closer however realized that I was not wearing my beekeeper protective Packa suit so decided against doing so…
You may have noticed a lot of pictures with bocadillos…Spanish sandwich…I keep ordering them as most often there is nothing else…yes I never eaten more bread than this…yes I am tired of it…yes I will likely gain weight after all this walking 😂
Tomorrow a shorter day 23 kms, with what looks like a pretty tough climb prior to Poladura de la Tercia as the spectacular areas of the San Salvador Camino will start appearing. Day 3 is supposed to as stunning a day as any on various Camino routes!
To finish a few other pictures from the day…