Hmmm...why so long to make a decision? 2024 Mini Series #1 - Reflecting on Past Long Walks published Dec 28, 2023; 2024 Mini Series #2 - Sept Long Walk Choices Under Consideration published Jan 3, 2024. As an aside just found out that these 2 blogposts went into my brother Marc’s Junk email folder…🤣 Artificial Intelligence (AI) at its finest! No wonder he doesn’t understand what I am babbling about! Hey maybe check your trash folders…you may have a couple of blogposts sitting there.
Well...sometimes life does not go in a straight line. 🤔
Current Situation
Final decision on booking the 2024 Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu 2024 deferred to early May. Why? Medical clearance required from the good Dr. Under the guise of “Out of an abundance of caution” two required tests. Test #1 - All is good. Test #2 - upcoming with results to be reviewed early May.
Frankly this and recent health news from a good friend reinforces an understanding that focusing on family relationships...maintaining or redeveloping friendships both new and old...pursuing new adventures or interests whatever they may be...self care...staying active are all more important than ever.
Why Post Now
- An earlier version of this Blogpost was ready to go in early January 2024. Information on the Choquequirao trek and various options including of course some new ground breaking analysis cannot be lost ☺️ Must publish now for future reference.
- Assuming we book the Choquequirao trek there is still the wee problem that minimum participation requirements are 6 trekkers for KAdventures to proceed with the walk. Providing information on this walk now...with gentle prompting (see below) may trigger someone reading this to consider the walk. If such is the case then when Paulo and I book...just maybe someone else may join.
Agreed this is a rather unorthodox approach as I am not guaranteed to walk at this time however thinking a bit about my past working experience unorthodox has likely my way of doing things forever.
- Had fun creating this Blogpost...something to look forward to as I patiently wait 😳🤔 for a final decision.
I expect...unless I change my thinking which I reserve the right to do 😉 that the next Blogpost will be published once the final decision is made.
Decision Making Process
Decision making has been quite the process over the past couple of months...some time ago Paulo and I agreed that the Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu was the #1 choice. First a few inspiring pictures.
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| An intriguing section...stay on the trail! |
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| Known as Death Staircase built by Incas in Peru! 😰 No it’s NOT part of the trek! 😅 |
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| Choquequirao |
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| Quite the terraces |
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| Apurimac Canyon |
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| Machu Picchu |
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| Steven - Son in Law at Machu Picchu in 2009 |
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| Early years bowtie and all ☺️ |
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A little later...age 22...a very big day…fuzzy picture but you get the idea of “snazzy” 🤣
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| Post Camino walk traditional hair look! |
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| 2014 - 2024 |
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| Current |
https://www.techradar.com/health-fitness/i-walked-10000-steps-every-day-for-a-week
Essentially I just walk as my preparation for long walks...I realize I should do more but 😰 that’s what I feel like doing for now...I spent 35 years cooped up working in an office...time to be outside! Over the next few months I plan on going up/down a hill just a hundred meters or so from the house...just for fun 😬. Oh and work on mobility and stretching!!!
Anyway here are my 2022/2023 FitBit stats: (M = million, K = thousand)
- 2022 9.1M steps or 24.8K per day - 6.8K kms or 18.6 kms per day
- 2023 10.6M steps or 28.9K per day - 7.9K kms or 21.6 kms per day
A little perspective needed here…I have been following on Instagram…as have 87.5K other followers alexander_campbell a young Australian. On Feb 12, 2023 he set out on a 4 year 40,000 km walk through 30 countries and 4 continents. One of his goals…
“Along the way, I’m raising money for the Fred Hollows Foundation to support their efforts to restore sight to those who are needlessly blind.”
His planned route
365 days in (clearly not all walking days as the fellow can’t walk on water 😉) he has walked 9,239 kms and is currently in Bangladesh. Absolutely amazing, inspiring and heartwarming to follow his journey as he constantly meets people who invite him for supper, attend local weddings, sleep in their house etc. And yes he has come across many snakes so far 😱…. I highly recommend!
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| Walking route in first year |
The walk to Machu Picchu!
KAdventures trip website - Trek rated 8 out of 10 on their difficulty scale
KAdventures Website link for Choquequirao (Machu Picchu) Trek
Description of Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu
Introduction
▪ 12 Breakfasts, 9 Lunches, 8 Dinners ▪ 4 Nights Hotel
▪ 8 Nights Camping
VIEW DATES, PRICES &BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY HERE
Sitting astride a high ridge amongst the snow-capped peaks of Peru, the Inca fortress of Choquequirao is one of the most important discoveries of Inca antiquity; we invite you to discover the secrets of this abandoned city on this classic 2 week trekking holiday. Already a rival to Machu Picchu in terms of its size and splendour, more buildings and llama-decorated terraces are being exposed at Choquequirao each year. More remote and challenging to access than Machu Picchu, it is far less visited and still offers you the chance to wander freely amongst the evocative ruins and explore the terraces in relative solitude. Our fully supported trek to this so-called 'Cradle of Gold' is by way of the awe-inspiring canyon of Apurimac River, involving an exciting descent and ascent of almost 2000 metres to reach our camp beside the citadel of Choquequirao (3000m)! We will have a full day to explore the ruins before setting off on a 5-day trek through the rugged and beautiful Cordillera Vilcabamba, a region dominated by impressive snowy 6000 metre peaks including Pumasillo and Salkantay.
Following a former Inca trail which once connected Choquequirao to Machu Picchu, we then cross the Totora Pass (4500m) then turn north to descend the Rio Colpa, passing untouched Andean villages whose Quechua inhabitants still wear traditional dress. Arriving at the cloud forest cloaked valley of the Rio Urubamba, our trek concludes with a guided tour of Machu Picchu and a welcome free day in Cusco. This is a fantastic holiday in Peru and a must for adventure seekers who want to follow in the footsteps of the early explorers and for those searching for a genuine ‘Inca Trail’ experience, but without the crowds. This could well be the best trek in Peru!
Is this Holiday for You? (as per KAdventures website on Choquequirao trek)
Our friendly camp crew will take care of all the camp chores, so when in camp you can relax, rest and enjoy the views. A good level of fitness is essential, but this is an achievable challenge for any regular hill-walker and the rewards for our trekking efforts will be quiet trails, and chance to explore the ruins of Choquequirao in relative solitude.
Further information about the daily description of this trek is found in the Appendix below... an interesting read.
Comparisons with recent long walks
- Choquequirao to Machu Picchu while short at 9 days walking and 111 kms packs quite a punch. It is more than 3+X more challenging on the Total Elevation Gain/Loss per Km walked basis than either the 2022 Camino Primitivo/Camino San Salvador walk, the 2023 UK Coast to Coast (C2C) England walk or the other 3 potential 2024 walks!
- Viewed on a daily basis the results simply blew me away! 😳
- The entire 9 days of the Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trek rate in the top 10 most challenging of all walking days!
- #7 is Day 3 (Lake District) of the C2C England walk which combined with weather rates in my mind as my most difficult walking day ever
- Kumano Kodo in Japan then takes 5 of the #11 to #16 spots...I described in past blogposts just how fatiguing but inspiring the walking was
- #14 is Day 4 of the C2C England walk was a special day which including the meltdown occurring after the 2nd of the final 4 hills. Greg saved the day with a chocolate bar offering 🤣
- The 2 Camino walking days which would be recognized by fellow walkers in the top 20 are:
- #17 Camino San Salvador Day 3 from Pola de la Tercia to Buenduenos a long 31 km superb mountain walking day where a Camino Angel intervened when I was in real trouble.
- #20 St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles on the Napoleon route...well known for climbing the Pyrenees. Marc and I walked this route...we met Paulo in the Roncesvalles Albergue...he had walked the lower route as Brazilians do not like walking in the fog ☺️
- Cory Pass Mt. Edith Cavell (Banff National Park) - Fondly remembered as a very tough hike...maybe impacted by the fact that we drove from Wpg to Banff through the night non stop arriving at the trailhead maybe at 6:00am or so. It was dark so we snoozed for maybe an hour then walked ☺️. Total Elevation G/L / Kms walked (13) = 141 meters or 1 km less than my most challenging day so far Day 3 C2C UK walk at 142 meters. Ok that makes sense.
- Mt Rundle (Banff National Park) - Simply the hardest trail/scramble ever and the only one that I freaked out on and could not complete due to height exposure. The second attempt was successful so I have completed this trail ~ 1.8 times compared to Marc’s estimated 25 times. Total Elevation G/L / Kms walked (9.4) = 389 meters which blows away all other walking days including Choquequirao to Machu Picchu. Again that makes sense.
- Skyline Trail (Jasper National Park) - This is recognized as the finest backpacking trail in the Canadian Rockies and is often mentioned opposite top 10 world class trails. It was a glorious hike! Considering it’s 44 km length with 25 kms above the tree line the norm is to walk it in 2 days...somehow Marc convinced me to give it a go in 1 day...or was it the other way around...or simply a joint decision ☺️. Total Elevation G/L / Kms walked (44) = 49 meters. The Adjusted Kms walked considering G/L = 53 kms far surpassing the 47 kms Day 5 of the PEI Island Walk from Wellington to O’Leary.
Fellow Walkers - Are you interested?
Ok so there is no assurance that Paulo and I will be able to walk whatever trek we book to Machu Picchu given the minimum number of group participants (6) required. I outlined earlier our contingency plans should this walk be cancelled 10 weeks prior to the scheduled departure date...believe me ANY long walk is a great experience and I would switchover in a heartbeat however...Machu Picchu is calling!
KAdventures update…
- Initially there were 9 planned 2024 trips…3 have been cancelled as they did not meet the 6 trekker minimum 10 weeks prior to trekking date. No reason given...perhaps this is standard procedure to plan X treks and always run fewer?
- Of the remaining trips 2 are under consideration…
- Sep 29th Departure has no bookings to date
- Oct 13th Departure now has 1 trekker booked
Having walked with a number of you and hearing from others (kinda sorta) as to how great it would be to walk with me 🤣...just ask Greg 😉... you are invited to join us! It’s simple just go on the KAdventures website and book...voila...no worries as I have absolutely no say in planning the walk ☺️.
A few first names (with surname initial in case you need additional prompting) mentioned here but for sure there may well be others reading this who would really like to give this a go!
Past walking companions - Cyrille B, Georges K, Greg A (once you have competed in the World Masters running championships in Gothenburg Sweden in Aug 2024), John & Carmel L, Pierre V, Dave J, Dennis S (while I am not sure about red wagon availability I know they have mules should you get tired Dennis 😉)
Aware of previous Camino/Other Walking Experience - Henry K, Stefan K
Has Expressed an interest in a long walk - Ross E
Never expressed an interest but suspect he really wants to do this - Dr. Cal B Phd
- Key objective is to arrive two days early allowing for acclimatization as Cuzco is at 3,200 metres. Toronto is at 76 metres; Recife is at 10 metres and Winnipeg (my first 60 yrs) is an elevated 239 metres 🤣. Proper acclimatization is critical to mitigate the risk of high altitude sickness as we will ascend to 4,500 metres.
- Previous flights option suggestions were Toronto - Miami - Lima - Cuzco ~ 18 hours and Recife - San Paolo - Lima - Cuzco ~17 hours. Paulo and I would target to be on the same flight from Lima to Cuzco. That way if Paulo needs any language, airport logistical/emotional help or other support as need...I will be right there to assist 😉
- Sleeping bag rated to -5C. A quick look at the MEC website has some pretty expensive options...will settle for “good enough”. Will also need a duffle bag to transport all this stuff...same as 1996 Nepal trek. Purchase completed!
- Paulo and I will be sharing a tent...I thought separate tents might be best given my guaranteed requirement for getting up during the night to you know...look at stars...stretch...meditate etc. Paulo thought we should share a tent otherwise we would seem a little aloof or something to other trek participants. 🤔
Ok BUT I am not leaving the tent in the middle of the night considering the dangerous animals (see below) that undoubtedly lurk soooo having worked for 3 summers during my University days as a hospital orderly I am fully aware that certain “assists” are available to solve this. After researching this on Amazon I found the perfect solution with “screw on cap and glow in the dark lid” 😄. Paulo this is not a shareable item...I am sure Brazilian options will be equally or more snazzy. It has also been suggested “Guy you should test this perfect solution at home before the trek” 🤔 Will wait to order from Amazon!
- Deet insect repellant. Mosquitoes may well be the most dangerous animal in the valleys where it is recommended to use insect repellant...wear long sleeve shirt...long pants. Perhaps in the Fall hmm 🤔 should I say Spring in the southern hemisphere this will be less of an issue?
Ok as good a time as any for a dangerous animal diversion...from BBC Science Focus the top 10 dangerous animals in the world and the number of annual associated human deaths...for sure the ones highlighted in red are potential problems on this trek. If you are still reading you may have actually learned something ☺️
- 10. Lions 200 deaths per year
- 9. Hippos 500
- 8. Elephants 600
- 7. Crocodiles 1,000 (saltwater high altitude mountain terrain types) 😉
- 6. Scorpions 3,300 (ugh...they must be everywhere!)
- 5. Assassin Bugs (Chagos disease) 10,000 (no idea where these exist?)
- 4. Dogs 59,000 (always a possibility on long walks...use trekking poles)
- 3. Snakes 138,000 (can’t even bring myself to research this 😱)
- 2. Humans 400,000 (are drug smugglers in Peru or is that Columbia?)
- 1. Mosquitoes 725,000 (take precautions as suggested)
- Walking shoes? HOKA Speedgoats were great on the 2022 Camino Primitivo and Camino San Salvador and for the most part also good on the 2023 UK Coast to Coast except in the rain soaked Lake District where I switched to be Oboz trail shoes (sturdier). Does the terrain on this trek require another choice?
- Other equipment as required by KAdventures...hopefully I have most of the required gear. Intend on using my Gossamer Gear Gorilla backpack similar to the UK Coast to Coast and for sure trekking poles. We only need to carry our day gear as porters/mules will carry the bulk on our other gear from camp to camp. KAdventures will provide duffle bags for all our gear similar to what Everest Trekking Canada provided in 1996 Nepal trek.
Itinerary
DAY 1 - Oct 13, 2024
Meet at the group hotel in Cusco. Transfers from Cusco Airport are provided.
Arriving in the former Inca capital of Southern Peru, we are met by our guide or a KE representative who will arrange the transfer to the group’s hotel. As we are now at an altitude of 3200 metres we spend most of today taking it easy in order to acclimatize to the rarefied air. Depending on arrival time, we have the afternoon to relax and explore at our leisure and we may want to sample the local altitude remedy, coca tea.
Accommodation
Hotel
DAY 2 - Oct 14, 2024
Acclimatization day in Cusco (3200m), with a walking tour of the city including Sacsayhuaman.
We have a full day in Cusco to explore and acclimatize to the altitude. We have the option of taking a relaxing walking tour of the city. Every small street or alley-way that we enter and every corner that we turn, brings another surprise, in the form of superbly constructed Incaic walls or the rather more architecturally extravagant Spanish Colonial churches and palaces. The city, once capital of the extensive Inca Empire, has seen many changes since Pizarro took control of the city in 1535. The highlight of this tour is our visit to the impressive Inca fortress citadel of Sacsayhuaman, which is set high above Cusco. The afternoon is free for further independent exploration. In the evening, we can relax in one of the excellent restaurants close to the main square - the Plaza de Armas.
Meals: B Accommodation
Hotel
DAY 3 - Oct 15, 2024
Drive to the start of the trek at Capuliyoc and descend to the campsite at Chiquiska (1875m).
After an early breakfast at our hotel, we will set off on the scenic drive westwards from Cusco. We pass to the south of impressive Andean peaks such as Huayanay and Salkantay and have the chance to visit the Inca ruins at Tarawasi. We also stop off at Sahuite, where there is an incredible boulder, which was carved by the Incas into the form of animals, plants, houses and streets. Turning off the main highway onto a dirt road, we arrive at the beautiful village of Cachora (2900m). From here we take the dirt road high above the Apurimac Canyon to Capuliyoc where we meet our muleteer team and have lunch. In the afternoon we’ll begin our trek by hiking down into the Apurimac Canyon to our first campsite at Chiquiska at 1875m. The path is straightforward with a few switchbacks and downhill all the way, and there are fantastic views of the surrounding snow peaks and Choquequirao in the far distance.
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Descent Time Distance
Camping (1100M) 3 - 4 hrs 8KM
DAY 4 - Oct 16, 2024
Traverse the Apurimac Canyon and ascend to Choquequirao.
Our arrieros load the group's gear onto mules and after breakfast we set off towards Choquequirao, descending further into the Apurimac Canyon for the first hour on a switchback trail. The temperature increases as we lose height and close to the river we find ourselves amongst lush vegetation; trees, cacti and colourful flowers. We reach Playa Rosalinda in the bottom of the valley (1475m) and cross the small bridge over the mighty Apurimac. We are then faced with a steep climb up the other side of the canyon. The trail climbs upwards, again with sections of switchbacks, through lush vegetation and cloud forest up to Marampata (2930m) where we will stop for lunch after the long trek. The views to snowy peaks and across the canyon are a stunning diversion from the uphill walking. After lunch we traverse the undulating path to the campsite situated below the ruins at Choquequirao (2860m).
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 2190M (1230M) 8-10 hrs 15KM
DAY 5 - Oct 17, 2024
Full day visit and exploration of the Choquequirao ruins.
It is a short walk to the site (45 mins), which is on a prominent spur between two tributaries of the Apurimac and situated at around 3000m above sea level. This is a spectacular spot, with views of snow- covered peaks to the north and east and southwards across the vastness of the Apurimac Gorge to the small town of Huanipaca. The Inca ruins here are extensive and only partly cleared of vegetation. In fact, it is anticipated that Choquequirao will be just as impressive as Machu Picchu when its full glories are revealed. Excavation of the site continues to unearth new archaeological surprises, some totally unique to this site. Amongst the ruins that have been unearthed are an enormous curving bank of fine terracing, a chain of ritual baths and a central plaza surrounded by ceremonial and high status residential architecture. In the morning we visit the main plaza, the unique llama terraces and the Usnu (altar) before returning to our campsite by an alternative route for lunch. In the afternoon there is the option to visit the most recently cleared section of the Choquequirao site at Pacchayoq, or "House of the Cascades" close to a waterfall below our campsite. The terraces here are thought to have been used for agriculture, whereas the llama terraces are likely to have had a more ceremonial purpose.
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 600M (600M) 4 - 5 hrs 6KM
DAY 6 - Oct 18, 2024
Trek across the Choquequirao Pass (3340m) to the ruins at Pincha Unuyoc.
Today we ascend back to Choquequirao for another quick look at the ruin site. Arriving early in the morning, it’s possible we will have the site to ourselves and we can enjoy further exploration of the ruins. From the main plaza, we strike uphill, initially following an Inca aqueduct, to the Choquequirao Pass (3340m). There are great views from this point including down into the Rio Blanco valley, our next challenge. From here it’s a steep descent to the Inca terraces at Pincha Unuyoc, the “Water Shrine” where we set up camp either on or close to the terraces. We’ll take a late lunch at camp and enjoy some time to relax or explore this lovely Inca site in the late afternoon.
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 530M (900M) 6hrs 8Km
DAY 7 - Oct 19, 2024
Trek to Maizal above the Rio Blanco.
Today we begin by descending further into the deep valley of the Rio Blanco (shown on the IGN map as the Rio Victoria). We descend for almost 600 metres to the Rio Blanco, crossing the river on a rudimentary bridge in the rocky bottom of the canyon. After a short break here we will begin the tough 1200m climb through cloud forest and bamboo to the small campsite at Maizal (3000m). This is another steep pull uphill, but with glorious vegetation and views to enjoy on the way and there will be some time to relax at camp in the late afternoon.
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 1170M (620M) 5 hrs 8KM
DAY 8 - Oct 20, 2024
Cross the San Juan Pass (4150m) and descend to the Rio Yanama Valley.
A superb day's trekking as we climb to cross the Abra San Juan (4150m) and have spectacular views of the peaks of the Cordillera Vilcabamba, including Sacsarayoc, Pumasillo and Choquetecarpo. Climbing up to the pass, we see in the distance another recently discovered Inca ruin, Corihuayrachina and the equally interesting old silver mines of Mina Victoria, thought to have been worked for over 1000 years. Descending to the north into the Rio Yanama Valley, we follow a high trail which traverses steep slopes and provides another excellent opportunity to spot condors. We camp at the charming Andean village of Yanama (3500m).
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 1200M (650M) 7 hrs 11KM
DAY 9 - Oct 21, 2024
Trek over the Totora Pass (4660m) with views of Salkantay (6271m), the highest peak in the area.
A stunning days trekking up the Yanama Valley and bearing right towards the 4660m Totora Pass. Again we follow ancient Inca trails as we wind upwards steadily. From the pass spectacular views of the snow capped Sacsayraoc peak dominate, and once we’ve crossed the pass, the largest peak in the area, Salkantay comes into view. We descend from the pass on alternating sections of trail and dirt road until we arrive at Hornopampa. From here it’s a short walk on to the village community of Totora (3400m).
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 1220M (1400M) 8 - 10 hrs 19KM
DAY 10 - Oct 22, 2024
Descend to the semi-tropical valley and follow the Rio Santa Teresa to Lucmabamba (1800m).
Today offers an incredible range of changing scenery as we descend almost 2000m from the high altitude trails down into the semi-tropical environment of the valleys below. We follow the Rio Santa Teresa for approximately 6 - 7 hours passing numerous waterfalls on the way. The variety of birdlife, the butterflies and differing vegetation make the trek down to Lucmabamba through the cloud forest quite special and continually interesting. We make camp on the outskirts of the village (2100m).
Meals: B L D
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Camping 730M (1920M) 7-8 hrs 23Km
DAY 11 - Oct 23, 2024
Trek into the Urubamba Valley to Machu Picchu.
Our final day’s trekking on this outstanding Andean journey. Through the lush vegetation of coffee and tropical fruit plantations we are soon climbing through pristine cloud forest and join another ancient Inca trail leading to Llactapata, an Inca site that has only recently been excavated. We will also have a truly amazing view of Machu Picchu as we approach from the back of the Inca citadel, a sight very view visitors to the area are afforded. We then descend into the Urubamba Valley from where we will enjoy the spectacular train journey on the railway track which parallels the Urubamba river gorge to reach the bustling tourist town of Aguas Calientes. Here we check into our hotel and enjoy a hot shower in the afternoon before heading out to one of the excellent restaurants nearby.
Meals: B L
Accommodation Ascent Descent Time Distance
Hotel 940M (1170M) 5 - 6 hrs 13KM
DAY 12 - Oct 24, 2024
Guided tour of Machu Picchu, then return to Cusco via the Sacred Valley.
Today we visit Machu Picchu, the site that was lost to the jungle but rediscovered in 1911 by the Yale academic, Hiram Bingham. Declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1983, Machu Picchu exceeds all expectations. Perched high on an inaccessible hilltop the citadel is protected by huge cliffs and the raging Urubamba River. The bus transfer up to the site takes around 20 minutes and saves us from the relentlessly steep climb. A local guide will give us an interpretive tour of Machu Picchu and we will have ample time to soak up the mystical atmosphere of this incredible site. After the tour of the main buildings and structures with our expert guide, we can walk to the Inca Bridge, discover hidden corners of the ruins, or just soak up the atmosphere of one of the most famous places on earth. We return back down to Aguas Calientes in time to catch an afternoon train back to Cusco. We check into our hotel and have time to enjoy a final evening in the city.
Meals: B Accommodation
Hotel
DAY 13 - Oct 25, 2024
Departure day. Cusco Airport transfers are provided.
Your holiday ends after breakfast. Transfers to the airport are provided. Why not extend your holiday in Peru to include a visit to the Amazon Rainforest, an excursion to Lake Titicaca or a trip to Colca Canyon to watch condors. We can also arrange flights to Ecuador and cruises around the Galapagos Islands. Contact our office for further details.
Meals: B