A Very Tough Blogpost to Write

A fork in the road

My January 7, 2024 blogpost had the following comment

"Final decision on booking the 2024 Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu 2024 deferred to early May. Why? Medical clearance required from the good Dr. under the guise of “Out of an abundance of caution” two required tests. Test #1 - All is good. Test #2 - upcoming with results to be reviewed early May."

Test # 1 MRI was clear, Test # 2 Biopsy confirmed Prostate Cancer. My Urologist recommended surgery after thoughtfully laying out the alternatives, concerns, risks and reassuring me that this was caught early. I concurred…mid June 2024 scheduled date.

I was very calm as the good Dr went through his findings until such time as I recognized how incredibly fortunate I am that he had persisted in pursuing his initial suspicions. This isn’t the first time that I have lucked out with dedicated superb health professionals...they are amazing.

As I started thanking him for his diligence... well I might as well have been watching a tear jerker Hallmark Christmas movie…😭😩😭. After the water works stopped, within a relatively short period of time, I did manage to properly express my appreciation.

My Dad had Prostate Cancer at age 72...had surgery...and then walked 200 kms with my brother Marc and me at age 74 as part of a group of 9 Canadian trekkers in the Khumbu Region of Nepal.  He passed at age 89 of non prostate health reasons…his recovery and determination inspires me. Some may equate his determination to being a wee bit stubborn...well maybe...ok for sure... that has rubbed off on me.

Why am I being upfront about this?

A fellow curler who has prostate cancer said to me a while back “many of the guys here have likely never been tested...they simply don’t know if they have an issue”. Based on this I hope that a blogpost reader will ensure they or someone they know gets tested. Prostate cancer caught early has a high treatment success rate.

Going Forward

As such the planned 2024 long walk with Paulo and the June 2024 completion of my aborted 😊 2023 PEI Island Walk are both toast. A friend thoughtfully told me “think of your plans as being delayed”...that line of thinking appeals greatly.

Future blogposts will only be published when a long walk is imminent ie regained required physical and mental strength to do so. This will happen…timing is simply unknown at this point.

However

I had two brilliant (ok maybe in my little world 🤔 and a little too long 😉) blogposts ready to publish on the assumption that Test # 2 was clear. As usual I had great fun drafting them so why ditch them as most anyone else would logically do? Soooo... they are included below as originally written ie 2024 going ahead as originally planned. If you choose to read them...set aside the current speed bump above...replace 2024 with 2025 and all will be good!

The blogposts will serve as personal motivation for me in upcoming time periods...oh and ever important some chuckles as well. Past experience tells me that surgery recovery time when I can’t be out and about is quite challenging for me...I must and will find an interesting project to work on...open to any suggestions! ☺️. 

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Blogpost #1 - 2024 Final Decision…I’m sure of it 😊🙄

...and the final decision is the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome. A 15 day walk...starting Sep XX, 2024... through the hill towns of Tuscany Italy...WHAT?  Machu Picchu? Health concern? (omitted from original draft)

Well it’s been quite the journey...usually the fun happens while walking and not before! 🤔.

Hmmm…walking can be a dangerous activity!

...a stumble early March 😞

Was out on my daily early morning (5:00 to 5:30 am start...depending if I slept in or not) 2 hour 10km walk in early March. Probably in la la land again while listening either to my Spotify playlist, a Podcast or simply day dreaming and voila I stumbled...who put this street curb here? Wouldn’t you know it this stone fence was in the way on my way down and I plowed into it chest first. 😰

The stone fence!

Ouch that hurt however didn’t think too much about it…went curling 🥌 a few days later. 😪 However the pain kept getting worse over the next week soooo scooted over to the Hospital to get checked out.

EKG…chest x-Ray…blood tests and a few hours later the good Dr sees me. “Good news you did not suffer a heart attack”. While I did not say this I was thinking “Duh…I fell”…however clearly it makes sense that a heart attack could have caused the fall...hence the EKG.

Blood tests all good…”come over here to see the chest x-Ray…see here in this area…this line indicates a rib fracture…nothing to do but take pain meds and don’t overdo things…4-6 weeks healing time” 😣 there went the last three weeks of curling…my #1 winter activity...😪!

...a rude encounter with an e-bike

A couple of months earlier again on my early morning walk…after carefully looking both ways  before crossing a major street I stepped out and immediately heard a yell. D*mn an e-bike was bearing down on me at what seemed like warp speed…managed to lunge forward but was clipped and e-bike, rider and I all went down to the street pavement. I was wearing a lighted vest…said e-bike and rider absolutely no reflective material or lights of any kind 😬! Fortunately everyone was ok…I had forearm scrapes but otherwise unharmed.

...infamous UK Coast to Coast walk 

Thinking back to the 5 day battle in the Lakes District on the UK Coast to Coast walk with Greg fording wild rushing streams…slipping and sliding on mud patches or slippery rocks with the many pratfalls on my keester…I was more than a tad fortunate to have escaped relatively mostly unscathed! Broken trekking pole yes...broken bones no!  

Ok…exercise reasonable caution…stuff happens...time to plan for the next long walk where all will be good 😊

Choquequirao to Machu Picchu with KAdventures

This was the 2024 plan however clearly there were issues... KAdventures 2024 plans had 9 treks; 3 of which were guaranteed (based on past booking experience) departures.

I tracked the KAdventures Choquequirao trek departures daily.  By late March the first 5 (now 7) treks had been cancelled...KAdventures indicated in some years the Machu Picchu trek isn’t as popular...political instability or possibly the current Dengue outbreak “In Peru, 20 of the country’s 25 region are under a health alert due to the epidemic, which has surged to more than 134,000 cases, the government said this week.”  Machu Picchu currently isn’t one of the 20 impacted regions.

My best guess was the only 2024 trek likely to survive was the Sep 8th departure which Paulo and I had already determined was not possible...in the end a pretty good guess.

Trekking to Machu Picchu via Choquequierao is still very much a dream...will consider in 2025 or 2026 before age 70...otherwise may have to defer it to another life.

Teaming up with a walking partner would be great however my Feb 28, 2024 Machu Picchu Recruitment Drive blogpost attempting to interest someone had modest results …ok apparently an utter and complete dismal pathetic abysmal total failure! 🥲. 

All may not be lost… carefully rereading Friend of the blog #4 comments…the amazing dissection of my recruitment blogpost…it’s clear he is playing possum. I have known this fine fellow (PHD no less with a thesis in some esoteric mumbo jumbo computer object oriented system architecture voodoo field) for at 35 +/- 10 years (just not sure about dates 🙂) …golfed together always striving to achieve my lifelong dream of a hole in one. Trust me he is seriously considering this walking adventure and is simply playing it cool 😎

If walking with someone isn’t in the cards I must remember that my walking adventures started in 2013 striking out on my own ...39 days over 1,000 kms without getting permanently lost!  If all is good (physical, mental, personal) I would certainly consider signing up for the Machu Picchu trek without a walking partner. I am confident I can blend into a group of like minded folks...spinning tall tales...sharing a few laughs etc. After all KAdventure leaders will guide me to Machu Picchu...all I have to do is follow the leader! However lack of chocolate offerings should a mini meltdown occur could be a problem. ☺️ 🤔

Will see how 2025 develops. From KAdventures perspective it looks promising as 2 of their 10 trekking walks starting May 25, 2025 and Sep 29, 2025 require only 2 additional trekkers to be guaranteed so...Friend of the blog #4! Other?

For ALL Air travellers - a great little hack and a helpful hint for the day

Perhaps this is well known however I had never heard of it (how can that possibly be 😉). Ever get frustrated going to the airport...which terminal, gate, is plane on time, baggage carousel etc. 

Try this

- Text/Message yourself the flight number and it will show up as a hyperlink

- Click on hyperlink and tap Preview flight

I tried it on 2 flights from Toronto to Winnipeg AC259 (Air Canada) leaving the next day April 20th  and WS489 (Westjet) leaving later on April 19th and voila the following info. Seems pretty cool 😎 to me! Also tried it with success for a British Airways flight within Europe and an American Airlines flight within United States. For some reason this did not work within Brazil...sorry Paulo.

A little additional sleuthing indicates this may not work for all airlines and possibly limited to iPhones and iMessaging...if the latter is true so sorry for non Apple users 🥲

Via Francigena

This 2,000 km pilgrimage walk from Canterbury, England to Rome, Italy has long been on my radar.  It would be an incredible adventure as it meanders through 4 countries...England, France, Switzerland, Italy ending in a 5th country Vatican City.

Brief Description of the proposed 2024 walking route (Cicerone Press)

The draft plan...crafted by yours truly 🙂🤓 is outlined below...15 days over 410 kms from Lucca to Rome...enjoying the hill towns of Tuscany. 

The Adjusted Kms (for Elevation gains/losses) or “Feels Like Kms on level ground” indicates this should be a challenging walk. Using the categories cooked up for my 2023 PEI Island Walk the breakdown of the Via Francigena 15 day walk from Lucca is : 

Red Days - 2  "Come on get a wiggle on it walking days > = 40 adjusted kms 

    - Absolutely no goofing around walking...pretend I don’t notice people as I pass (really not nice)...army type focus (as if I know what that would be like 🤣)...no ice cream...grabbing berries off trees on the run without stopping.”

Yellow Days - 4  "Heads down walking days >= 35 to < 40 adjusted kms

    - Real focused walking...wave nicely to people as I hustle by...hallucinating about ice cream... lunch on the fly"

Blue Days  - 6  "Steady on walking days >= 25 to < 35 adjusted kms

    - Solid walking...less casual...have a few quick chats with people...maybe ice cream...quick lunch"

Green Days - 3  "Lollygaging walking days < 25 adjusted kms

    - Should be able to take it easy...seek out opportunities to talk to people...eat ice cream...focus on scenery...eat a casual lunch”

After a 7-8 hour walking day there isn’t much time to explore a town...see recommended sights etc. I expect that Tuscany will be an area to return to in the future...spend a week or two in a specific location and simply enjoy a relaxed visit and explore...but first I must walk through it 🤣. 

Long walking days tend to fly by when the scenery is pleasant and Tuscany should provide that in spades!

For those who have a little extra time, inclination or naturally curious the following 2 YouTube are excellent videos (~10 minutes)...scenery is awesome!

Via Francigena - Lucca to Radicotani     

Via Francigena - Radicotani to Rome

I sent Paulo a Via Francigena spreadsheet which...ahem...had a few graphs. ☺️. I may be misremembering whether the following discussion actually took place 🤔 In my mind it went something like this...😉

Me - Paulo I included a few graphs in the spreadsheet...have a quick look...just for the two of us...no point including them in the blogpost as no one is the least bit interested in my interesting analyses

Paulo - No, no, no my friend...do not think such things as I am very sure that everyone really loves these graphs. They are incrível e fantástico  and tell quite a compelling story. You MUST include them.

Me - Paulo...really...you must be on some crazy drug from Carlos (local Brazilian drug pusher) to think such nonsense...maybe someone notices the colours or something but they don’t give a hoot about this stuff.

Paulo - You are very wrong and here is why...I know such things...I understand people...you do not my friend! Let me tell you...first I am Brazilian, second I am a lawyer and lastly I am never wrong! Yes most people do not create graphs as a fun pastime...they do other MUCH more meaningful things however they hold you in the highest regard anyway. You are contributing knowledge for fellow walkers the world over.

And please remember my friend the longer your blogpost the better...excellent reading for falling asleep quickly at night. 

Me - As my maman would say “Ça pas d’allure ce que tu me dis Paulo”. Ok we can agree on the falling asleep part at least...I will include a few graphs...it’s just what I do 🙂

A little skeptism pays off  😳!

Clearly elevation gains/losses on a walk are important factors...one get’s a little more tired going up or down 😰. The Cicerone Via Francigena Part 3 Lucca to Rome guide book has a summary table of distances and elevation gains/losses. That was my starting point and surprisingly this walk appeared to be more challenging than the Camino Primitivo.

So a little sleuthing yielded an excellent source  www.viafrancigena.org the official Via Francigena website. I downloaded their GPX files and compared them to the Cicerone guide book elevation gains/losses...holy moly essentially 2/3 of the Cicerone guide book gains/losses! 😳

I then downloaded Wikilocs GPX tracks and compared them to the www.viafrancigena.org tracks and they were 2 to 3% lower.  

The second source was www.vieromee.forwalk.org an excellent website. I downloaded their GPX files and compared them to the www.viafrancigena.org tracks and they were about 8% higher. 

I then made a momentous decision...threw caution to the wind and used the www.viafrancigena.org tracks for my precious graphs and analysis. Yes I realize that was a big decision but tough decisions have to be made 😉. Who knows what we will find out walking! Always nice to have surprises ☺️

The following 3 graphs focus on walks with Paulo...Camino Frances, Camino Portuguese and Camino Primitivo and the 2024 Via Francigena walk from Lucca to Rome.

Overall Ranking  The lower the ranking factor the more challenging the walk.

Via Francigena Lucca to Rome is ranked overall as somewhat less difficult than the very enjoyable and challenging 2022 Camino Primitivo.  Note the Camino Portuguese is ranked as the easiest of our walks yet it was the most painful walk ever given the horrible blister problem.

Ranking based on Daily Adjusted Kms which = Feels like Kms walked on a level surface.

Observations: On this basis the 2024 Via Francigena walk has 3 of the top 10 most challenging walks with Paulo...numbers 2, 5, 8! 

Ranking based on the Combined Elevation Gains & Losses per Km walked. 

Walking a short day with significant Elevation Gains & Losses is often the most difficult of days as there are few chances to simply rest while moving forward. 

Observations: On this basis the 2024 Via Francigena walk has 4 of the top 10 most challenging walks with Paulo...numbers 6, 7, 9,10 

The following 2 graphs focus on all walks...Via Jacobi, Via Gebennensis, Via Podiensis, Camino Frances, Camino Finisterre, Kumano Kodo, Camino Portuguese, Camino Primitivo, Camino San Salvador, PEI Island Walk, UK Coast to Coast and the 2024 Via Francigena walk from Lucca to Rome.

Ranking based on Daily Adjusted Kms which = Feels like Kms walked on a level surface.

Observations: On this basis the 2024 Via Francigena walk has 1 of the my top 10 most challenging walks (161 walking days)...number 3! Pretty colourful graph...it should appeal on that basis alone! ☺️. Of interest PEI Island Walk at numbers 1, 7, Camino Frances at numbers 2, 5, Via Podiensis at numbers 4, 10.

Ranking based on the Combined Elevation Gains & Losses per Km walked. 

Observations: On this basis the 2024 Via Francigena walk is not on my top 10 most challenging walks. Of interest UK Coast to Coast at numbers 1, 5, 9 and Kumano Kodo at numbers, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7.

By far the most difficult day...way out in front... using this measurement is Day 3 (Rosthwaite to Grassmere) on the UK Coast to Coast... the toughest day ever considering absolutely horrible rain and terrible terrain conditions.

Ranking based on the Average or Ranking of Daily Adjusted Kms which = Feels like Kms walked on a level surface + Ranking Combined Elevation Gains & Losses per Km walked. 

I had a little extra time and curiosity got the better of me 😀 so I combined the two metrics above and averaged them. This is really ground breaking analysis 🤓! Note the lower the average Ranking the more difficult the result.

Observations: On this basis the 2024 Via Francigena walk has 1 of my top 10 most challenging walks....number 7. Camino Frances takes 3 places numbers 6, 9,10. Via Podiensis takes 2 places numbers 3, 4.  

By this metric the toughest day when combining length and elevation gains/loss was Day 3 on the Camino San Salvador from Pola de la Tercia to Benduenos...this is not surprising given 31kms, 1,128m elevation gain, (1,696) elevation loss. This day was an absolutely glorious walk in the mountains highlighted by a Camino Angel couple coming to my aid when I was in trouble having simply run out of gas. 

Now that wasn’t so bad 🤣...hope you had fun!

Dangerous Animals

A few readers...and I stress “few” may feel I embellish the dangerous animals aspect. Well think again...consider this recent posting on the Camino Forum 😱

"Something a little unusual on the Spanish news websites today. Two pilgrims forced to climb an oak tree to escape from a cow defending her calf. Apparently they called the Guardia Civil from their perch in the tree and the Guardia moved the cattle to allow the pilgrims to continue their journey.”

Snakes - always high on my list...here is the situation described for the Tuscany region.

Poisonous snakes in Tuscany

According to our sources in the literature, there are only 2 types of poisonous snakes in Tuscany and throughout central Italy. One species (aspis viper) is relatively common, the other (meadow viper) is rare.

Vipera aspis: This is the most common poisonous snake in Central Italy including Tuscany. The poison of the Vipera aspis is usually not lethal. But there have already been deaths, even a few years ago despite modern medical help. The aspis viper lives in almost all of Italy and in the southern half of France. This poisonous snake is also very active during the day and hunts mice, birds and the like. The Vipera aspis lives mostly in dry, open areas, thus more in stony regions than in the forest. The snake is usually well under one meter long. The shape of the muzzle is striking. However, the different species of snakes in Tuscany are hardly distinguishable from lay snakes. For this reason alone you should consult a doctor immediately after every bite of a snake. My add "well duh..."

Vipera ursinii: This is a very small poisonous snake that is very rare. In the middle of Italy with Tuscany, the Vipera ursinii is still the most common viper in Europe. The snake is about 50 cm the smallest snake in Tuscany. The poison is not harmless for humans, but the amount of the poison transmitted during the bite is often rather small with the small snake. There are few deaths in humans, but some people have snake venom allergies. This can be very dangerous. My add “well how does one know if they have snake venom allergies?"

We cannot say with absolute certainty that there are no other species of poisonous snakes in Tuscany. My add “very comforting to know 😳"

Non-toxic snake species Tuscany

In Tuscany 7 species of non-toxic snakes are known to exist.

Grass snake,  Smooth Snake,  Girondian Smooth Snake, Dice snake (water snake),  Four-lined snake (common snake in Tuscany), Aesculapian snake (longest snake in Tuscany at up to 2 meters)

Aesculapian snake in Italian Pharmacy signs WHY have a snake in this sign???

However this is the one to watch out for...

Green whip snake A non-toxic snake that lives mainly in Italy and southern France. It bites fast and strongly (probably therefore the word “anger” in its name). Also the Green whip snake is known that it bites for a long time or does not let go any more. My add “so d*mn comforting to read this description...geez!"

Other dangerous animals mentioned for Tuscany

Wolves: The number of wolves in Tuscany has risen sharply in recent years. Some statistics speak at present (at the beginning of 2019) even of more than 100 wolf packs with several hundred animals. My add “If I come across a wolf pack with several hundred animals I will either run like crazy or lay down and play dead”...either way guaranteed ☠️

Wild boars: Similar to other countries, there is also an increasing number of wild boars in Italy. My add “while I did not see one I came across a number of wild boar hunting parties while walking on the Via Podiensis in France”. Cyrille and I would take particular delight in discussing the merits of hunting (neither of us hunt!) with virulent anti hunter Georges. 😂

An interesting diversion ☺️ 

Glacier 3000 suspension bridge

I came across this entertaining short video (5 min) by Richard Quest of CNN! While a stretch to include in my walking blog it does feature a short walk. What a glorious day this would be...start in Geneva Switzerland...board the Golden Pass train to the mountains near Gstaad. Then up to Glacier 3000 (3000 meters above sea level) where the world’s only suspension bridge between 2 mountain peaks exists. Richard Quest professes to be very uncomfortable with heights however he thought this short walk was incredible!

Richard Quest Video - Switzerland Mountaintop Suspension Bridge

Walking across this suspension bridge which admittedly would get the juices flowing...similar to Nepal suspension bridges...then retire after to Muller’s Factory where Richard Quest has hot chocolate and crepes. An absolutely delightful day...anyone can do this...however it would take an adventurous spirit as a prerequisite. While I don’t have an official Bucket List this is now firmly a Must Do!

Glacier 3000 Suspension Bridge

Famous people I know...

Walking with two World Class Athletes!!!

Incredible how this came to be 😳  I am now associated with 2 World Class athletes as walking partners. 

UK Coast to Coast - Greg

As of April 16, 2024 in the M60 - 64 age category Greg has the following 800m rankings 

    - #2 World Ranked
    - #1 NCCMA (North Central American and Caribbean Masters Athletics) Ranked

And to boot...an Official World Record Holder in the 4 x 800 m relay

Note Athayde for M60!

Greg run hard and do Winnipeg, Manitoba proud in the upcoming 2024 August World Masters championships in Sweden 

Via Francigena - Paulo

Move over Greg to share the spotlight with Paulo who recently won the Brazilian State Championship for his novice age group in his Brazilian state championship for ....Jiu Jitsu (self defence martial art and combat sport based on grappling, ground fighting and submission holds). Consider this... as there was no one else in his weight category Paulo had to compete and win against opponents the next heavier weight category!

Paulo has qualified (I think) to go to Brazilian National championships next year! He sent me a video of his winning match... watching it is very entertaining as the Brazilian filming the match is simply going ballistic exhorting Paulo on!

While Jiu Jitsu is not yet an Olympic sport hopefully it will soon be. I promised Paulo that IF Jiu Jitsu is accepted as an official sport for the Los Angelas 2028 Olympics I will trek down to L.A. to see him compete...as it’s a given he will be representing Brazil 🙂

I on the other hand am not a world class athlete...racking my brains to think of some potential sport that I can quickly master 🤔. I just know it’s out there waiting for me...

Walking with a World Class Artist - brother Marc

Marc has just been accepted by the Artists for Conservation group - this is a big deal! Proud moment! Very happy for Marc!

“Artists for Conservation (AFC) is the world’s leading artist group supporting the environment. With members from over 30 countries, AFC’s mission is to support conservation and environmental education through art that celebrates nature"

Except for 15 3/4 months (Marc is a little younger than me) I have known Marc all my life. 😉 At an early age he clearly showed real creative talent however what I find most amazing is that Marc is a self taught artist. He has worked so very hard to continually improve his skills and is now reaping the reward for his efforts. The link to Artists for Conservation is shown below.

https://www.artistsforconservation.org/

Have a look...click on the link...go to the menu at top right hand corner...select Marc Arbez from the drop down menu “select an artist”. Marc currently has 8 paintings under Recent Work. Click on any painting and concise info, description of the painting and price is shown. Marc indicates he will donate 15% to Fort Whyte Alive (FWA) a Winnipeg nature treasure.

Here is one of my favourites...

Via Francigena key decisions to make 

- Decide on final dates and book plane flights

- Finalize which GPX tracks will be used while walking...apparently signage while good is not quite at the Camino Frances level. I wouldn’t want to get lost ☺️

1) Should we plan a contingency day in Lucca? I have a direct flight option from Toronto to Rome however Paulo’s flight connections are not so kind...well he lives in Recife with a tiny 4 million population base.

2) Do we stay an extra day in Rome? Back in 1978 at the end of a 7 week backpacking trip through Europe Dawn and I spent a week in Rome so I had a chance to be a tourist. However  Paulo has not been to Rome so will leave that decision up to him. 

3) Do we book all/any? accommodations in advance for the walk? My preference has always been to book ahead as much as possible...like to have a set goal for the day. We will also be walking in Tuscany a high tourist area of Italy. Booking ahead was a real problem on the Camino Portuguese where I had my splendid blister issues 🥲...it was success on the Camino Primitivo and Camino San Salvador walks.

- The answers to the above 3 questions are interrelated as we have a grand total of 1 extra day planned resulting in at least 3 possible approaches:

    - Extra day in Lucca, 15 walking days, no extra day in Rome
    - No extra day in Lucca, 15 walking days, extra day in Rome
    - No extra day in Lucca, 16 walking days, no extra day in Rome

Given that this type of decision has to be a game time on the ground decision it would seem that the answer to 3) should be book the initial night in Lucca...then book on a daily basis using minor 🤣 research by yours truly, Gronze website, Booking website and whatever we learn from fellow Via Francigena walkers. This pushes me out of my personal comfort zone...and it’s about time!  

- Learn Italian in next few months…given my aptitude (none whatsoever!) for speaking new languages should be no problem! “vorrei una birra, per favore”

- Of course I will need new walking shoes...brand new pair of HOKA Speedgoat V5’s waiting for me 🙂 Keen observers will note this is the same colouring and style worn for the 2023 UK Coast to Coast walk...alas I know terribly disappointing that a more stylish version was not available...maybe next time!

Stay healthy...keep walking...stay focused... on to Tuscany! If successful wonder how many future trips it would take to walk from Canterbury England to Lucca Italy hence completing the entire Via Francigena? 🤔

The Via Francigena is currently under consideration as a possible UNESCO recognized pilgrimage. Currently there are 2 such UNESCO pilgrimages being the Way of St. James to Santiago de Compostela and the Kumano Kodo to Kumano. 

Wouldn’t it be something to someday having walked all 3 UNESCO recognized pilgrimages!!!

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Blogpost #2 - PEI Island Walk - Unfinished Business

March 25, 2018 Blogpost

"This will be my last Camino... hopefully there will be other more modest adventures in the future. Overall I enjoyed the experiences immensely ...clearly not every single minute.

As well this is likely the last posting for this blog. So today’s blog will be very different from previous postings as I am including only a few pictures."

After making this statement:

121 blogposts were published 

2 Camino routes, Uk Coast to Coast Walk and PEI Island Walk marathon after saying no more Camino routes and more modest adventures 😂 1,344 kms walked over 50 days  

Not mentioned in any Blogpost but hmmm

While no specific plan (as of yet) exists to complete the Camino Portuguese as originally planned in 2018 the desire to do so has never really dissipated. While Paulo and I walked from Lisbon to Santarem the Camino Portuguese walk came to a wicked halt as described in past blogposts. We ended up walking from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.

I have a draft plan to walk the 376 kms from Lisbon to Porto Portugal over 14 days...averaging 27 kms per day. Whether this will happens or not remains to be seen...while not the most scenic Camino route it would be satisfying to properly finish this Camino. ☺️

June 6, 2023 Blogpost

"Admittedly I can be a little too determined…well ok stubborn (Arbez inherited gene)…and letting go a goal like completing a long walk is tough.

One thing for sure…I have no desire to return to PEI to simply complete the missing 128 kms…would gladly return as a tourist to explore the East end of the Island though! Some incredibly kind accommodation providers to visit!"

PEI Island Walk 2023 - What was done...orange line…what was missed...no line!

PEI Island Walk - Final Goal

Admittedly a little off in my March 25, 2018 prediction!!! As for my June 6, 2023 statement...let’s just say something is pulling me to complete this walk. 

New Plan

Complete the PEI Island Walk in the 24 walking day window originally planned (with a little rest break as shown below 😂). A few fairly significant changes though from the initial planning:

- Dawn will be joining me however not walking...rather relaxing at the Johnston Shore Inn with the views below for the first 3 days. After a pit stop in Montague we then treat ourselves to a very special dinner event at The Inn at Bay Fortune...concluding with a few days in Charlottetown.

- Accommodation will be upscale... Past major screwups... Cozy modern rustic 1 week rental in Black Hills, South Dakota where the family rebelled after 2-3 nights thus requiring a move down the road to a motel with a pool or the 1 week lakeshore (maybe 1km away) cottage rental at a “great price 😒 at Hillside Beach, Manitoba fighting the mice 😰

    - 3 nights @ Johnston Shore Inn where I recuperated for 2 nights post raw oyster eating 

    - 1 night @ Riverside Inn in Montague

    - 1night @ The Inn at Bay Fortune near Souris (pronounced like a mouse in French)

    - 2 nights @ Charlotte’s Rose Inn in Charlottetown

Johnson Inn views...

Dawn has kindly offered to provide shuttle driving duties allowing me to complete the missing Island Walk sections. 

Admittedly I must be on my best behaviour otherwise when I text “I am done...would appreciate a lift...please and thank you" at the end of my walking day the response might depend on how irritating I was prior to the day’s walk 😳 🤔😉. Let’s say the irritation level was

Low to mild

-“Great timing Google maps says 15 minute drive...see you shortly!"

Medium

- "So sorry I just saw your iMessage from 2 hours ago...I will pick you up soon...hope the mosquitoes aren’t too bad!”

High 

- “Oh Melanie (co-owner of Johnston Inn) has just invited me for tea and crumpets...she will be baking crumpets in the next few hours...then we will sit down and have a leisurely chat. If not too tired I will then drive out to pick you up...otherwise a quick nap first. I took your Deep Woods Off spray in case there are mosquitoes here and replaced it with Avon Skin so Soft...not sure if that stuff works..hope the mosquitoes aren’t too bad!”

Royally Bad 

-“Oh it’s been pouring buckets all day here at the Inn and still raining hard. The car is 10 ft outside the door so not a very comfortable walk for me. You have that infamous Packa raingear that you talk about all the time. I’m sure if you wear it...squat down...you will be fine. Even if it stops raining everything around here will be wet and muddy so why don’t you sleep squatting with the Packa...do get up every hour or so otherwise your quads will be sore. Come to think about it you will be exactly where you need to be for tomorrows walk so that will save me two driving trips.  I took your Deep Woods Off spray in case there are mosquitoes here and replaced it with Limburger cheese...geez I hope the review I read about the smell actually attracting mosquitoes is wrong...hope the mosquitoes aren’t too bad!” 

Daily Plan - Note for all roundtrip shuttles required Dawn and I will split driving duties

As you skim at warp speed the 4 day Day 21 - 24 walking Plan I invite you to pause for a moment...If you conclude what is required to complete this walk is bonkers/totally crackers... I totally get it. I admit it is nuts however it’s fun to contemplate and should be...barring shucking raw oysters or dodging dangerous animals...most satisfying ☺️

Day 21 (Jun 13, 2023) - 30 kms walking from New Zealand + 13 kms to Bothwell WP #23 

Shuttle Rides Required

    - am 17 kms drive from Johnson Shore Inn to the intersection of route 302 with Confederation (roundtrip 34 kms)

    - pm 25 kms drive from Bothwell WP #23 to Johnson Shore Inn (roundtrip 50 kms)

Island Walk Website Description

"Your walk will continue to take you along the Confederation Trail through PEI’s only bird sanctuary. The stunning nature on this portion of the trail includes spiritual spring that you can’t miss. If you are travelling in the summer months, be sure to check out the Elmira Train Museum, where you can enjoy a refreshing ice cream cone. Duly Noted

Leaving Elmira, you can take a road walk past North Lake, or you can slip down to East Point. There you will see an Island phenomenon, the meeting of the ocean tides at East Point which is spectacular to see. You will also want to keep your eyes open for possible seal sightings! Check out the East Point Lighthouse before taking a road walk to Bothwell."

Day 22 (Jun 14, 2023) - 41 kms walking from Bothwell WP #23 to Howe Bay WP #25

Shuttle Rides Required

    - am 25 kms drive from Johnson Shore Inn to Bothwell WP #23 (roundtrip 50 kms)

    - pm 30 kms drive from Howe Bay WP #25 to Johnson Shore Inn (roundtrip 60 kms)

Island Walk Website Description

"From Bothwell, take a walk to Basin Head Beach, home of the world-famous singing sands, it’s truly a sight to see and hear! In recent years, Basin Head has been on the top of the Best Beach in Canada list on various travel and tourism websites more than once. When you see it, you’ll know why.

Next, you’ll walk along some peaceful red dirt roads and quiet side streets and arrive in Souris, known as the friendly seaside town. Please no rain...red dirt roads 😳

Start your walk on the shoulder of the road from the beautiful Eastern town of Souris towards Fortune Bridge. As you walk, you will encounter stunning vistas of the Fortune River. You will also walk right past PEI’s very own celebrity chef Michael Smith’s Inn: ‘Inn At Bay Fortune,’ which serves delicious sustainable food items.  Hmmm...shoulder of the road means large trucks bearing down...stay alert!

Chef Michael Smith is a Canadian celebrity chef with an international reputation for simple, sustainable home cooking. He is the author of 10 cookbooks and has starred in five different Food Network series. Chef Michael’s cooking shows are seen in more than 100 different countries around the world. For more information on Chef Michael Smith and the Inn At Bay Fortune visit their website.

As you continue into Howe Bay, you will see both a fishery and blueberry fields"

Day 23 (Jun 15, 2023) - 36 kms walking from Howe Bay WP #25 to Montague WP #27

Shuttle Ride Required

    - am 30 kms drive from Johnson Shore Inn to Howe Bay WP #25 (roundtrip 60 kms) 

    - pm no pickup required as we meet in Montague

Island Walk Website Description

"The next part of your walk will take you on quiet red dirt roads through Dundas and past the villages of Bridgetown and Primrose. These two small villages are the new home to a growing number of Amish farmers who have built their school and small businesses along the highway. Keep an eye out along this part of the walk for friendly llamas who love human attention. When you are coming into Cardigan, you will catch a view of the beautiful harbour. Wow did not consider llamas in my dangerous animal planning 😰

A beautiful rail trail walk on the Confederation Trail to the stunning town of Montague. The short 12 km walk from Cardigan will take you to amazing views coming into the Montague Harbour.” 

While walking in 2023 I met a couple who attended the Chef Michael Smith’s culinary feast at Inn at Bay Fortune. They raved about it!!! I then took a look at the initial draft plan and...voila created a new Jun 16, 2023 plan

Day 24 (Jun 16, 2023) - 21 kms walking from Montague WP #27 to Gaspereaux WP #28

Shuttle Ride Required

    - am no drive required as I walk to Gaspereaux WP #28 AND THE PEI ISLAND WALK IS COMPLETE!

    - pm 21 kms drive from Montague to Gaspereaux WP #28 

Island Walk Website Description

"To avoid the busy Rte 4, head East towards Gaspereaux. Although this section is mostly a road walk, you will catch beautiful views of the towns of Three Rivers and Georgetown across the water."

In 2019 Dawn and I spent a great week based in Charlottetown touring the West side of this beautiful Island.  We celebrated our 40th anniversary in Charlottetown with a full lobster dinner. I will never forget this as I battled valiantly to figure out how to “dismember” a lobster all the while wondering...”Is this thing really dead? I know it’s red so hopefully dead but look at those claws!”   

Well timing for the 2024 walk coincides with our 45th anniversary. We will double back on our tracks from Gaspereaux and spend the night at the Inn at Fortune Bay attending Chef Michael Smith’s “The Fireworks Feast”. This promises to be a very special treat...the website description:

"What is included in the FireWorks Feast? 

• Our unique dining experience takes place over four hours featuring ingredients from our Culinary Farm, foraged and local tastes. 
• A Culinary Farm Tour with a petite Farm Taste.
• Oyster Hour features ember roasted oysters, unlimited raw oysters and three fire stations with hors d’oeuvre’s cooked or smoked with live fire.
• A sabre toast with sparkling wine.
• The Feast includes a sit-down multi-course meal in front of our 25-foot live-fire hearth. We serve a Bread course, Maritime Chowder, Earth Plate & Salad Course, Shared Plate, Meat or Catch of the day with Vegetables Course, and Farm Dessert.
• House-made marshmallows roasted over an open fire”

Sample past menu which apparently is still indicative of 2024 menu 

Sample Dishes

Hmmm 🤔 Oyster Hour...this is going to be very interesting and requires some thinking. My 2023 PEI Island Walk came to a dreadful halt...recovering over 4 days due to a fun evening shucking raw oysters with beer 🥲. I certainly lean towards partaking in ember roasted oysters...I mean they are cooked...I ate a cooked lobster in 2019 and all was 100% fine!

Do I shuck raw oysters? How often do you have a chance for unlimited raw oysters? Was the 2023 experience random bad luck i.e. a single bad oyster...never to be seen again? Is there such a thing as being susceptible to eating raw oysters? Some Google sleuthing leads me to conclude that raw oyster shucking has a low probability of causing a problem with a corresponding high impact if a problem occurs...sort of like Russian Roulette. I lean towards NOT partaking in raw oyster eating however one never knows how the spirit moves on a given day...

Statistics

Given so many of you were absolutely faschinated with daily stats updates on the PEI Island Walk I will of course keep reporting the following in my blogposts.

Daily Information [Cumulative stats on 20 day 2023 PEI Island Walk]

Distance:    XX Kms   [ 581.7 Kms]

Walking time:  Xh Ym [107h 53m]

Doddling time:  Xm  [11h 46m]

% Doddling time:  X.X% [10.2%]

Avg walking speed: X.X Kms/hr  [5.4 Kms/hr]

Elevation G/L meters: XX(YY)  [1,706:(1,612)]

Total Daily Steps: XX [875,867]

___________________________________________________________________

Other interesting 🤣 facts showing original plan, actual (2023 partial walk) and projected 

Rest days while walking: original 0, actual 0, projected 4

Rest days at home: original 0, actual 370, projected 370 🤣 - reminiscent of my 2013 Long Walk!!!

% of Walking Days Complete (original 24, actual 20, projected 24): 100%

% of Total Kms  (original 703, actual 582, projected 710): 101% 

% of Shuttle Rides  (original 17, actual 18, projected 24): 141.2%

% Come on get a Wiggle on Days >40 km  (original 7, actual 4, projected 5) : 71.4%

So to complete the PEI Island Walk 1 shuttle ride per day is projected to be required!

That’s the scoop on the 2024 PEI Island Walk completion...averaging 32 kms a day over 4 days will be challenging and should provide good base training for the Via Francigena 15 day walk from Lucca to Rome in September 2024. It should also be a very nice vacation week!

Once again I not sure how extensive my blogposts will be...I mean really...what can I possibly blab about considering 4 days and 128 kms of walking? 🤔😳