Saturday 11 February 2023

Trans Bhutan Trail

Ok....I will never get to walk this incredible trail (why later) however it has to rank as THE adventure of a lifetime. 

A well known member of the Camino Forum run by Ivar, who goes by mspath posted the following BBC article on the Trans Bhutan Trail.

Farm-to-cushion dining along the Trans Bhutan Trail

Mspath is a very inspirational woman who has walked the Camino Frances 11 times from 2004 - 2015. She is now 83...so her first Camino would have been around age 64. Her blog indicates she has walked 9,000 kms over 500 days. At this point in her life she indicates that her walking days are in the past however she is an incredible resource for fellow pilgrim walkers on the Camino Forum. Her recall of detail is boggling to me...down to take this fork at that point...stop at this little shop for breakfast etc etc. 

Mspath joined the Camino Forum in Nov 2009 and has posted 10,070 times...I joined Aug 2010 and have posted 264 times 🤣. Always a positive influence she is known for including some inspiring quotes...a recent example...

"Le cœur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît pas/ the heart has its reasons, of which reason knows nothing."
Pascal, Les Pensées” 

The Trans Bhutan Trail description took me back to 1996 when my Dad (74), brother Marc and I joined 6 other Canadians and trekked 200 kms in the Solo Khumbu Valley and beyond in Nepal. In so many ways the 403 km Bhutan trail promises to expand and eclipse what we experienced... 

Whereas Mspath has incredible recall over her walking adventures in recounting specific details I do not have that ability. A few times someone has approached me and said “Guy you should write a guidebook on your walks”...🤣. Well...how do you write a guidebook when one’s focus is almost entirely on people, incidents be they funny, terrifying, exciting, scenery or food. That’s basically what I remember of my various walks.

In Nepal...out of a 3 week adventure...what stands out most are a few things.

Nepalese people and children - beautiful, fun loving people. From our Western perspective they had “nothing” in terms of comfort etc. however they had “everything” in that they just always seemed happy. A few pictures...


Fun game along the trail - Marc playing with Sherpa


Nepalese little girl - favourite picture

Porters who carried all our gear + Canadian giant

Ken - Two Canadian groups trekked separately...Ken was in the other group. At some point he came to talk to Marc and me and lamented that his group wasn’t as much fun as ours 🤣. He went on and on sooo...Marc and I looked at each other and went for it. We concocted a story about making a break-away dash to climb Everest (we were maybe 20 kms away at one point)...we managed on our own to get to 27,500 ft. (Everest a little over 29,000) before being forced to bivouac due to a storm and had to retreat. Ken had no idea what to make of our story for quite a while before he caught on...so funny!

Then in our windup party...see picture below as I felt no pain (only 2nd time in my life...no joke!) Ken was sitting beside Pa (Dad) and he started a sob story about how he had fallen in love with a fellow trekker in his group...only problem Ken had married someone else just one week before leaving for Nepal. What should he do etc... Now the thought of Pa being a relationship counsellor is incredible to anyone who knew him...we laughed so hard! Honestly glad Ken did not sit beside either Marc or me as we probably would not have done any better than Pa 😂

Kathmandu Windup - the tiny little cups of whatever added up!

L to T - Al (Liz’s husband), Pa, Sharon (Merv’s daughter), Archie (saint as he was Pa’s tent mate), Marc, Marie (Archie’s sister), me, Merv (trek leader), Liz

Sewing discussion - This likely happened on one of the first walking days as we were getting to know members of our group. Late in the day Liz and I walked together chatting about stuff…somehow about sewing 🤣. A common interest in the sense Liz sewed a lot and Dawn sewed many clothing items of all kinds…dresses etc for our 3 girls. We even talked about sewing machines and I chimed in about Pfaff and serger machines of which I just knew we had them at home. So…walking along we heard some loud shouting behind us…turned and saw one of the Sherpa guides running pell mell towards us…turns out we had overshot the camp…tents and all by at least 500 meters or so. So we walked back laughing and took some good natured kidding about our “escapade”. 

Kathmandu negotiation - In Nepal we were advised that one must negotiate everything when buying something. It’s the custom and it’s expected. So Marc and I set out on the final day to buy some souvenir items. We enter a local shop and Marc proceeds to buy (actual numbers may vary however the story remains true 😂) 3 Nepalese jackets...Let’s say he paid 3,000 Nepalese rupees. 

Marc comes out of the shop quite proud of himself and his negotiating prowess....until I tell him that the shop owner was asking 900 Nepalese rupees per shirt...so 2,700. The look on Marc’s face was priceless as he turns to look back at the shop which no joke was closing...what a laugh we had!

Pa’s Diary - Pa was man of few words unless of course you screwed up 😳...he believed strongly that you should not take pity on yourself...just get the job done...whatever. He did enjoy a good laugh though for sure! Most of us spent time at the end of the day writing down some thoughts...in paper form of course...a journal/diary. Near the end of the trek one of the women in our group asked Pa “Andre...I notice you are also keeping a journal/diary...what types of things are you writing?” 

Pa sheepishly then showed her a page of his journal/diary (actual journal/diary long since lost however this replica perfectly shows what he was capturing as the highlight of a day)...every single page for 3 weeks was just like this!


History of Trans Bhutan Trail

Taken from the excellent website of the trail https://www.transbhutantrail.com/

What is the Trans Bhutan  Trail? 

The Trans Bhutan Trail is a 403km route, spanning from Haa in the West of Bhutan to Trashigang in the East. It is considered one of the world’s greatest walks and one of the best hiking routes in Asia. 

We are the official organization behind the restoration and sustainability of the Trail and operate itineraries for international travellers where 100% of the profits go back into its development. We welcome all Bhutanese to follow in the footsteps of their ancestors and experience the trail. The Trail is a symbol of national unity and a way to connect Bhutan’s past, present and future. 

History of the Trans Bhutan Trail 

The Trans Bhutan Trail dates back at least to the 16th century when it connected fortresses called Dzongs and served as the pilgrimage route for Buddhists in the east travelling to the most sacred sites in western Bhutan and Tibet. Trail runners, or ‘Garps’, worked the Trail and were legendary, travelling with vital messages and mail between Dzongs at great speeds with little food or rest. The Trail came to play a major role in uniting the region’s many provinces, repelling foreign incursions, and fostering the birth of Bhutan as a nation in 1907.


By the 1960s the Trail had fallen into disuse with the construction of a national highway. Bridges, footpaths and stairways collapsed, gewogs (villages) and landholdings were separated, and this traditional pilgrimage route became neglected.

In 2018, with the wisdom and vision of His Majesty, The King, the restoration of the Trail was led by the Bhutan Canada Foundation with the support of the Tourism Council of Bhutan to restore the Trail to make it accessible again for locals, pilgrims, and travellers. During the COVID-19 crisis, with the assistance of the Royal Government of Bhutan more than 900 furloughed workers helped to restore the Trail to its former glory including the rebuilding of 18 bridges, hundreds of kilometres of footpaths and more than 10,000 steps. Today the 403 kilometre (250 mile) Trail, spanning the country from Haa in the west to Trashigang in the east, can be walked, run, or biked, in part or in whole.

Places visited on the Trans Bhutan Trail

The Trail visits 27 Gewogs, 4 Dzongs, 21 temples, 12 mountain passes, 5 suspension bridges, 10 cantilever bridges, 77 chortens and 30 stupas. It crosses a variety of terrain, from lush rice paddies, rhododendron forests, thick wilderness, remote villages and bustling towns. It also goes through some of Bhutan’s most major cities including Thimphu the capital and the royal city of Bumthang. 

The Trans Bhutan Trail takes travellers to the East of Bhutan, a region which has seen little tourism compared to the West. The Trail will give you an insight into the communities that live here as well as uniting the neighbouring regions who share similar blood lines and cultures.

Short Videos of the Trans Bhutan Trail (both 2 minutes)

A really inspiring video...it looks incredible!

Trans Bhutan Trailyoutu.be

Second video with great scenery and some history

https://youtu.be/DhNt2Sjw0vs

If not yet convinced about THE walk here is a sampling of a few daily walks

DAY 4 - PARO – DOPSHARI 

After breakfast this morning, rejoin the Trans Bhutan Trail heading east. The trail rises gently from Lamgong Village as it traverses the sprawling rice paddies of the Paro Valley, before carving around the northern ridge and descending into the traditional village of Dopshari.

At Dopshari, enjoy a cookery demonstration and a traditional Bhutanese lunch at a local farmhouse. After lunch, you will also have the opportunity to try your hand at Bhutan’s national sport, archery, and have a quick game of traditional ‘khuru’ (darts).

After lunch, head out onto the trail for one last time for the climb up to Upper Dopshari, where you will enjoy stunning views out over the Paro Valley.

DAY 21 - BUMTHANG – PHOMDRONG 

After breakfast at your hotel, head east out of Bumthang, climbing towards the Lhodrak Karchu Monastery and enjoying spectacular views over Chamkhar town and the Babzur Valley as you go. Pay a visit to the monastery, which is one of the most important in Bhutan. 

It is believed to have been founded in 1984 by Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche, a descendent of a Tibetan lama whose spiritual lineage can be traced back to one of the close disciples of the great Buddhist Guru Padmasambhava. Originally, the two-story monastery was large enough to accommodate 70 monks, but has since grown considerably and is now home to over 400. The building houses a huge assembly hall with imposing statues of Guru Rinpoche and a beautiful terrace with breathtaking views of the Chhokhor Valley and Jakar Dzong.

DAY 23 - URA – GAYZAMCHU 

After breakfast, head out for a visit to the Ura Lhakhang (temple). Built in 1982, its main statue is a two-story Guru. According to locals, another, human-size copper Guru housed in the temple was responsible for saving the Valley from the spread of chronic leprosy in the past.

After visiting the temple, continue your trek through the beautiful Ura Valley as you head up towards the Wangthang La Pass. At 3,775 metres (12,385 feet) above sea level, this is one of the highest points on the Trans Bhutan Trail. This challenging section climbs through the beautifully scenic Phrumsengla National Park, a vast nature reserve whose tree-clad mountains give sanctuary to red pandas, tigers, and rare birdlife. 

Holy smokes this could make for an incredible Dangerous Animal blog 😂 however not to worry according to the Trail Safety wording below...it’s all good!!!

Natural landscapes and wildlife on the Trans Bhutan Trail

The southern foothills are home to swamp deers, clouded leopards, one-horned rhinos, water buffalos,

and golden langurs. Various species of wild orchids are also found here. 

The central part, the inner Himalayas, is covered in deciduous forests and is inhabited by Himalayan black bears, wild boars, and sambar deers. 

Snow leopards and blue sheep are the exotic creatures of the North, the Great Himalayas.

Many of our Trans Bhutan Trail itineraries make it possible for anyone to not only observe from afar, but also experience firsthand most of these exotic landscapes and wildlife.

Trail Safety

“To manage the safety of hikers and locals, the Bhutanese Forest Service actively tracks and monitors the location of tigers along the TBT. If there is a tiger in the area (as there was in Chendebji), they close that section down.

Trans Bhutan Trail - How does it compare to Camino Walks?

Well I may just have taken a quick peek at this ☺️...the coles notes summary is be prepared for significant elevation gains/losses, short daily distances, culture shock and an experience totally unlike any Camino walk. A few stats...looking at 8 Camino routes, Kumano Kodo in Japan, upcoming Island Walk PEI and Wainwrights’ Coast to Coast walk in England...Top 3 in each category.

Days walked

Trans Bhutan Trail - 28       
Via Podiensis - 27                
Camino Frances - 27            

Average kms walked per day          

Camino Finisterre - 31.3
Island Walk - 30.0
Camino Frances - 29.6
Trans Bhutan Trail - 15.8 (lowest)


Total Elevation Gains Meters 

Trans Bhutan Trail - 27,592 
Via Podiensis - 16,559
Camino Frances - 13,679

Total Elevation Losses Meters

Trans Bhutan Trail - (29,344)
Via Podiensis - (16,989)
Camino Frances - (13,524)

Average Elevation Gain Meters per Day

Trans Bhutan Trail - 985
Kumano Kodo - 938
Camino Primitivo - 654

Average Elevation Losses Meters per Day

Trans Bhutan Trail - (1,048)
Kumano Kodo - (873)
Camino San Salvador (695)

Adjusted Walking Speed for Elevation G/L per kms per hour

Trans Bhutan Trail - 3.52
Kuman Kodo - 3.80
Coast to Coast England - 4.51

Wow... an incredible walk...unquestionably one of the world's greatest...what’s the problem?

The following says it all $$$ totally out of reach for almost everyone 🥲. Also one cannot walk alone...must have a certified guide...note the costs are charged by a non profit organization. From the Trans Bhutan Trail website here is the cost breakdown:

Fees (CDN $) + Taxes 🤣

"Our trip includes the Bhutanese Sustainable Development Fee and your Bhutanese visa fee. An example shown for 2 people in a twin or double room.

Bhutanese Visa Fee $54

Bhutanese Sustainable Development Fee
All visitors to Bhutan must pay the Sustainable Development Fee    $9,439

Travel Services Fee    $17,847

Total    $27,340"

Included are all meals, guide, accommodation (most nights in a semi-permanent tent setup). 
However one must never 100% give up...here was my post on the Camino Forum on the issue of cost:

"On the affordability question yikes 😳! However one must live in hope. At this point I can think of 3 options…admittedly all very low probability 😂

1) inheritance from a long lost never known relative

2) lotto win - need to start buying tickets, or

3) an intriguing one! In fall 2022 while walking the Camino Primitivo with a Brazilian friend we came upon a Japanese Documentary team. They produced 3 high quality documentaries in 2020 of a pilgrim walking from Le Puy en Velay to Santiago de Compostela.

Well my friend and I were interviewed…sheer luck…and filmed by the documentary team. After the walk I followed up with the Director of the documentary and he has confirmed that in March 2023 when the documentary is released in Japan parts of our interview will be shown.

So how can I capitalize on this…well followup with the Japanese team to see if they would like to film a Canadian pilgrim walking the Trans Bhutan Trail and of course ahem support $$$ my walk. ☺️ Or I could contact the Trans Bhutan Trail association directly and see if they wish to invite the Japanese team and of course film me 😂

Either way my chances of walking the Trans Bhutan Trail increase from zero to well zero+++. Like I said one must live in hope and dream 😴”

Thinking about this further I am really warming up to the 3rd possibility...maybe this was the real reason for the Japanese Documentary experience. I will have to play this a little cool though...wait for the documentary and see how much airtime I have. Let’s say it’s between 5 seconds or 5 minutes...not to get too optimistic say 4:55 (minutes and seconds!) total. 

Then I have to be really, really, really creative...at my life’s best... in my next communication with Shidara...my friend on the Japanese team. Somehow I need to convey in a light  but convincing manner...that it’s a win/win/win/win situation for the Japanese Documentary team, Trans Bhutan Trail team , Japanese people and me that I walk the trail...at no cost to me ☺️. Ok so I don’t speak Japanese...so what? What do I have to lose by trying? You just never know where things may go in life...no kidding I will try 🤣.

Ok fun break over...now I must go back to some serious study on Canadian Income Tax stuff...to do a little upcoming volunteering...geez and I don’t even like numbers. ☺️ Sixteen 1 hour Webinars and as many practice tax situations over the next 2 - 3 weeks before doing the first return. Hmmm...someone who may be reading this right now actually vouched for me as a reference...at this point I am thinking “why did he/she stretch the truth about me”...result of which I was accepted as a volunteer!



No comments:

Post a Comment