Well no sooner had I sent yesterday’s blogpost that confirmation of the next long walk was received! I feel so very fortunate and thankful to be publishing this blogpost...
2025 Plan
In 2024 I was in regular contact with my Brazilian friend Paulo (he less so than me 🤣 as I overwhelmed the poor lawyer with multiple ideas etc.). Stepping back a bit...2024 planning went something like this.
- Early Jan 2024 we decided to walk the Choquequirao to Machu Picchu Peru trek...KAdventures being the chosen company. On Friday Jan 5th we settled on booking/paying the deposit on Monday Jan 8th. Late Sunday Jan 7th or perhaps early Monday 8th Paulo messaged me “Trek dates don’t work for personal reasons...need to reconsider dates”. Meanwhile on Tuesday Jan 9th I had a Dr.’s appt in the early morning...hmmm possible issue...Medical tests required. Oie sure dodged that bullet! Sometimes one is just plain lucky! This trek is still a dream though!
- Months go by waiting for test results...findings indicate surgery required. We agree to forego the Machu Picchu trek as KAdventures was cancelling most of their 2024 Choquequirao treks due to low booking numbers and focus on walking the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome Fall 2024. After all the good Dr. forecast a 6 week recovery or end of July 2024...lot’s of time ☺️ to get ready for a late September long walk.
- Well one could say I finally woke up “sometime"...admitting to Paulo that significant post surgery issues meant Fall 2024 was toast. Paulo "No problem we will walk in May 2025!"
- Dawn and I vacationed Fall 2024 in PEI for a week...I walked 126 kms (zero/nada elevation gains/losses) over 4 days completing the aborted 2023 PEI Island Walk. Huge confidence booster for me! May 2025 here I come.
- Late Fall 2024 Paulo messages “Guy let’s have a WhatsApp video chat"...Paulo’s turn... a knee issue...waiting for a Specialist appt...end result corrective surgery required early 2025. Rescheduled Via Francigena May 2025 walk has now been deferred to Fall 2025. Paulo’s Dr assures him that he will be good to go 🤔...I live in hope...fully accepting that the right decision will be made when the facts are known. Health coming first has been a consistent decision criteria for all our previous walks and planning.
Meanwhile I had completed a TON of very detailed prep work on the Via Francigena Lucca to Rome walk and high level prep work on other route options B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J as alternates (I am not joking...10 current options).
A future blogpost will describe various Fall 2025 options...basically for Paulo’s consideration. He will then simply ask “Guy, which route do you want to walk?” Notwithstanding the work completed on the Via Francigena option a significant consideration will be that 2025 is a Jubilee Year for the Catholic Church…unbeknownst to me that is a very big deal. With up to 30 million visitors to Rome this year is this the right time? Would be both an exciting and daunting challenge for 2025!
Without saying anything Paulo is likely thinking along these lines...”My Canadian friend is old...he can still walk... he is determined (ok maybe a wee 😳 bit...a lot...stubborn)... who knows what he has left in the tank…he should get to pick. I have many more years...but nothing has changed from the Camino Frances in 2014...I don’t want to walk with Brazilians...Canadians are way better!”
It’s not that simple...key decision factors...how many walking days are possible?...how challenging is the walk?...does the route have that gut feel appeal? I would like to plan a walk that tests my current limits but magically does not exceed them...so a stretch target. Honestly if I just listen to what floats aimlessly in my head the chances of setting too high a target are pretty high so...🤔
A Fall 2025 walk would break the current Winter Olympic pattern...2014 Camino Frances, 2018 Camino Portuguese, 2022 Camino Primitivo...yes the pattern clearly points to 2026 but why not shake things up a bit! If not now when?
May 2025
Out of the blue 😉 I remembered having a meaningful Westjet $ credit resulting from the Air Canada double booking mitigation strategy for the 2024 PEI week. The $ credit must be used by Sept 2025...oh darn! A little research...Westjet flies direct from Toronto to two European destinations Edinburgh Scotland and Dublin Ireland. 🤔
Have I ever considered walking in these countries…is my Arbez family name Zebra spelled backwards? Well it just so happens…
Another long time dream... walking the Dingle Way in Ireland...described as such...
"The Dingle Peninsula is one of the most inspiring places in Ireland. Steeped with an abundance of archaeological remains, history abounds as you hike alongside the Atlantic Ocean and experience the magnificent landscapes & coastal scenery. National Geographic Traveller describes south west Ireland’s Dingle Peninsula as “the most beautiful place on earth”.
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| Dingle Way |
Google research of a number of walking companies landed on https://irelandwalkhikebike.com.
Ok Dingle Way...I’m going! This will be my 3rd walk in the British Isles...very different than walking Camino trails. Long distance walking is a way of life in the British Isles...accommodations vary but generally are smaller, unique, more expensive and availability in high walking seasons can be quite challenging.
On the 2015 Thames River walk I self appointed myself as “the booking company” and made accommodation reservations for the 5 members of our illustrious group...3 separate rooms over 9 walking days. While quite the effort the overall consensus was things worked out very well...although the extroverted friendly member of our group did lament a few times “our room is smaller than yours...no fair...come and see it Guy!” 😂. Too bad so sad D*nn*s!
For the 2022 UK Coast to Coast with Greg, Mac’s Adventures was chosen and they did an outstanding job...choosing accommodations, providing route info, GPS tracking...transporting bags etc...sooo no brainer to go with a company on the Dingle Way...leave it to the experts and enjoy!
Camino walkers may question transporting bags...agreed that felt weird on the UK walk however I simply took more stuff than I normally do knowing I could walk with a lighter pack choosing whatever I needed...and more... for the day.
A few extra clothing items, possibly multiple rain gear items (see below 🤣), Cliff bars for extra energy on the trail, maybe a few Snicker bars along with a smaller 30L “Greg”ory backpack will be shoved/stuffed into a duffel bag for daily transport. Hmmm I wonder if the Snicker bar magic will be the same should a mini meltdown occur when no one is around to hand a bar to me 🤔...a real solo walking disadvantage!
Ok walking company chosen...Dingle Way route chosen…going solo...ready to book...however...
I got curious and took a quick peek at the Kerry Way. Very intriguing...
"Explore the magic of the south west corner of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. This tour runs parallel with the famous Ring of Kerry.
Home to rugged cliffs and golden beaches, friendly faces, small villages, green fields & picturesque mountain ranges. So, it’s no wonder Kerry is called ‘The Kingdom’. Completing the full distance of a Way Marked Trail is one of the most rewarding things you can do. On this 11-Day trip, you will complete the full Kerry Way, starting and finishing in the wonderful town of Killarney.”
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| Kerry Way |
Both the Dingle Way and Kerry Way are clearly outstanding walks however the Kerry Way won out. Reasons...variety of walking i.e mountain ranges, coastal...more challenging both lengthwise and double the elevation gains/losses in comparison to the Dingle Way and finally “je ne sais quoi other reasons ☺️” Or perhaps the reason is as simple as...
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| My favourite cheese from Costco! |
A short 1 minute video from Hillwalk Tours sealed the deal for me! Worth a look!
The chosen walk…going solo…I can speak the language sort of…I doubt I will get lost 🤣
Day 1 Arrival in Killarney
From your point of arrival, use the public transport information we provide to make the journey to Killarney.
Day 2 Killarney - Bridia Valley
20 Miles / 32 Km 8-10 Hrs 820 MetresToday’s hike starts with a walk through the grounds of Muckross House & Gardens, the centrepiece of the Killarney National Park. Continue past scenic Torc Waterfall and follow paths along the quiet Old Kenmare Road up into the mountains and through the remote Esknamucky Glen, where you may even spot some Irish Red Deer. A lakeshore path leads you to a café at Lord Brandon’s Cottage from where you enter the Black Valley at the edge of Ireland’s highest mountains. The climb into Bridia Valley will get your leg muscles working overtime but the fantastic views are more than worth it. Transfer from the head of Bridia Valley.
Day 3 Bridia Valley - Glenbeigh
13.5 or 17 Miles / 22 or 27 Km 6-9 Hrs 690/760 MetresA steep climb over a ridge will get those leg muscles working again as you enter Glencar where you follow a rugged off-road trail around Lough Acoose. From there the hike gets easier with a walk along an old ‘boreen’ before you follow the banks of the Caragh River. Tracks and rough paths lead you through the enchanting Lickeen Forest. A quiet country road leads through the Caragh river valley before a track junction allows you to choose one of two routes around Seefin Mountain. Don’t worry, they’re both beautiful and suddenly open up surprising views of Dingle Bay and the sea!
Day 4 Glenbeigh - Foilmore
12.5 Miles / 20 Km 5-7 Hrs 425/550 MetresFrom Glenbeigh, you have the option to visit beautiful Rossbeigh Strand and dip you toes into the waters of Dingle Bay. From there, country roads and an old coach path take you around Drung Hill, with wide views across the bay and the Dingle peninsula. Pass above an old railway viaduct before the trail descends over wild moorland into the Ferta River valley and continues on tracks and country roads towards Foilmore, near the town of Cahersiveen.
Day 5 Foilmore - Waterville
13.5 Miles / 22 Km 6-8 Hrs 850 MetresWhile you are not climbing to any great height on today’s walk it is nonetheless one of the more demanding walks of the Kerry Way. The trail follows scenic and undulating mountain ridges that offer stunning views of the mountains that surround the route in all directions. An optional road alternative lets you skip the last ridge which can be the most challenging part of the day. No matter which route you choose, your hike finishes in Waterville, one of Ireland’s most westerly towns, which enjoys spectacular sunsets.
Day 6 Waterville - Caherdaniel - Option 1/2
8-10 or 17.5 Miles / 13-16 or 28 Km 4-5/7-10 Hrs 350/960 MetresToday you have two options:
Option 1, (Coastal Route, Shorter): 13-16km / 8-10 miles / 4-5 hours / 350m
After several days of hiking, your feet may just decide that this short walk is exactly what you need. With the Atlantic Ocean to your right and Lough Currane to the left, this is one of Ireland’s most beautiful hikes. From the top of Coomakista Pass you can enjoy spectacular coastal panoramas of the Kenmare River, Derrynane Bay and the surrounding islands. If you choose to follow the Derrynane Mass Path from there, you can even dip your toes into the sea at one of the beautiful beaches along the way.
Option 2, (Inland Route, Longer): 28km / 17.5 miles / 7-10 hours / 960m
This challenging hike will both test your resolve and fully repay your efforts. The first part of the route retraces the last section of yesterday’s hike along Termons Ridge. From Dromod, the walk along the eastern edge of Lough Currane can be rugged and wet, until you meet a small country lane and cross the Capall River. You now follow country roads past Isknagahiny Lough and into a remote valley. The trail then leaves the road and climbs the side of Eagles Hill where you reach one of the highest points of the Kerry Way at Windy Gap. A long, gentle descent into Caherdaniel gives you ample time to enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Day 7 Caherdaniel - Sneem
10.5 Miles / 17 Km 5-7 Hrs 440 MetresThe hike today follows old mountain tracks and paths across the foothills of a long range of mountains, often with far-reaching coast and mountain views. This is the same route used to transfer butter to Cork in the 1800s. Staigue ringfort, one of Ireland’s finest historical sites dates back around 1,600 years and is located just off the trail.
Day 8 Sneem - Kenmare
20 Miles / 32 Km 7-10 Hrs 690 MetresNear Sneem you can visit an art gallery and cafe in a woodland setting before the route passes part of the Parknasilla Resort. Hillsides and woodlands guide you through an ancient landscape, dotted with tiny hamlets and you are never far from the sea. After crossing the fast-flowing Blackwater River, you descend through woodlands and forests to the shore of Kenmare Bay – a lovely setting for a picnic with views across to the Beara Peninsula. Continue along the hillsides to Kenmare, a pretty market-town with a lively pub scene and some fantastic places to eat.
Day 9 Kenmare - Killarney
15 Miles / 24 Km 6-8 Hrs 675 MetresThis walk is a lovely way to finish your tour. Follow the quiet Old Kenmare Road up into the mountains and then onwards into Esknamucky Glen, where you may even spot some Irish Red Deer. From here, the last 14km retrace your walk from Day 2 through the Glen, past Torc Waterfall, Muckross Abbey and onwards into Killarney.
Day 10 Departure from Killarney
Final consideration before booking
I should contact John & Carmel from Ireland whom Paulo and I met on the 2022 Camino Primitivo. John is a blog subscriber and I thought it would be discourteous if he read about my walk in a blogpost. Importantly contacting John in advance might facilitate a visit which appealed.
Camino Primitivo - Sep 22, 2022 Day 7 Fonsegrada to O Cadavo
"John & Carmel - Ireland We walked quite a ways with this nice couple.
They are walking for a week at a time and will leave from Lugo. John retired 15 years ago at 50 from the Police force and now renovates houses…he referred to it as his 180 degree turn in life!
John volunteered two facts about bees 🐝 which I thought you should all know:
1) In small African villages where the risk of stampeding elephants is high they hang bee hives around the village crops…apparently this stops the elephants cold
2) On a NASA space mission they took some bees and let a few loose…bees wing receptors do not work in the non gravitational space therefore they cannot fly…only float.
It is very possible that John was pulling my leg on these and is currently telling others about the gullible funny looking Canadian…but I choose to trust 🤣
I went into the cafe to pay after noticing John and Carmel enter a while ago..however while they were gone Carmel had left this little gelly candy for me. It was so good…saw her in Super Mercado a short while ago and thanked her for this nice gesture."
Camino Primitivo - Sep 23, 2022 Day 8 O Cadavo to Lugo
"Back to last evening a very enjoyable supper with John and Carmel (must find out if this spelling is correct) from Ireland and Mike from the United States. No photo of the group as we forgot! Conversation was free flowing…found out Mike is walking the Camino as a gift to himself - turns 40 this year. Sigh 😔 to be so young!"
Camino Primitivo - Sep 24, 2022 Day 9 Lugo to Ferreira
"Last night we had a fun supper and said goodbye to Carmel and John from Ireland 🇮🇪. How is it possible to know someone for a few days and feel that good friends have been made? That’s the magic of the Camino. Who knows maybe a visit to Ireland in the future could result in a getogether!
Codfish with potatoes was delicious!"
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| Carmel & John (Ireland), Pierre (Belgium), me, Paulo (Brazil) |
I added the following...
“Also John, if you have been dreaming of walking the Kerry Way with a Canadian just let me know. ☺️”
Tuesday Dec 17, 2024 @ 3:09 pm
Response from John included the following 😀
“It would be a pleasure to join you on the Kerry Way adventure...”
I reread this 3 or 4 times and then blurted out to Dawn “you won’t believe this!"
A few more emails back and forth including a very kind offer from John & Carmel to spend the first night at their home. John suggested which bus line to take from the Dublin airport...which town to disembark...indicating he would pick me up... a 15 minute drive from their home. The next morning we will take the train to Killarney the start of the Kerry Way. I get the sense that John is quite the organizer and that I may have met my match here on the organizing front 😉
Wednesday Dec 18, 2024 @ 6:49 pm
Booking with https://irelandwalkhikebike.com including non refundable deposit completed.
Time elapsed from initial communication including wishful thinking to reality - 48 hours and 10 minutes! Absolutely Outstanding!!!
I went back to the UK Coast to Coast walk go decision with Greg...first communication Oct 23, 2022 4:49pm...Go decision communicated to Mac’s Adventures Oct 26, 2022 1:36pm - 68 hours and 47 minutes
I guess this clearly proves what I have long suspected that former System Architects are dawdlers in their decision making abilities vis a vis former Police Officers. ☺️
Needless to say I am very much looking forward to seeing John & Carmel again and walking the Kerry Way with John. He has led groups of walkers on various hikes with his affiliation with Mid Tip Hillwalkers (John I Googled this 😉)...recently leading a group of 16 on a trip to the Tramuntana Mountains, Mallorca...impressive!
John clearly has top shelf leadership skills however I will be the senior citizen being 106 days older than John 🤣.!
- First time in Ireland...a country which has long fascinated me... which means I get ever closer 🥲 to my favourite “middle” daughter Jeanne in the family competition for most countries visited. If you astutely guessed that out of the 7 family adults (Dawn, me, 3 daughters, son in law and daughter in law) I am the only one who knows there is a competition ...or cares...you would be correct. ☺️
"Why there are really no snakes in Ireland
Once the ice caps and woolly mammoths retreated back northward, snakes returned to northern and western Europe, spreading as far as the Arctic Circle.
Britain, which had a land bridge to mainland Europe until about 6,500 years ago, was colonized by three snake species: the venomous adder, the grass snake, and the smooth snake.
But Ireland's land link to Britain was cut some 2,000 years earlier by seas swollen by the melting glaciers.
There are no snakes in Ireland for the simple reason they couldn't get there because the climate wasn't favourable for them to be there,"
How does the Kerry Way rank opposite other Long Walks?
| - Days Walked | ||||
| - Total Kilometers Walked | ||||
| - Average Actual Kms per Day | ||||
| - Total Elevation Gain/Loss | ||||
| - Total Elevation Gain/Loss per Day | ||||
| - # Red Days = > 40 Adj Kms* | ||||
| - # Yellow Days = 30 - 40 Adj Kms | ||||
| - # Green Days = < 30 Adj Kms *Adj Kms = Actual Kms adjusted for Elevation Gain/Loss |
Walk timeline |
Final booking arrangements have been completed including all accommodation and other stuff...Westjet flights booked...allowance for a contingency day pre and post walk made.
- May 13 Overnight at Carmel & John’s
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| HOKA Speedgoat V6 to the left, HOKA Bondi V8 to the right ☺️ |
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| Kerry Way - Ireland...admittedly a little boring! |
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| Fall 2025 - Embarrass my Brazilian friend |
