Sunday, 13 October 2013

Via Podiensis (October 13, 2015) - Day 35 Les Faux to Aumont-Aubrac

After yesterday I was ready for a quiet short day...and that's exactly what it was. I walked approximately 22 kms in a little over 5 hours. I knew it was a short day so I felt like I was dawdling in comparison to a normal walking pace.

It seems that the mind and body just seem to adjust to what is expected of them...short day means slower speed and lower expectations with the reverse being true on longer days.

Nothing happened in terms of any weird Beast Gevaudan showed up.

Last night's supper was really good at l'Oustal de Parent...I realized after coming into the hebergement and relaxing a bit just how cold I really was. I think maybe it had to do with releasing some tension from the snow, pelerin tracking and dangerous beast.

I came downstairs to eat at 7:00 and my place setting was just besides the warm fire!

 A really nice warming fire!                   

I was eating alone as I think I was the only guest for the evening however I really have to give credit to the Oustal for still providing me with a great supper...they could have warmed up a can of ravioli or beans but they didn't.

Seif, a fairly young guy, was the cook and waiter I think...he was really good and I gave him a Canadian lapel pin. He immediately said that visiting Canada, specifically the West coast, is on his wish list.

Delicious vegetable soup

Beef with rice - great sauce!
Cheese selection - for the first time I was asked if I wanted hard or soft cheese

Slice of cake with some type of fruit

I spent some time after supper reading the first book on the fantasy series by George R R Martin (recommended by my daughter Jeanne)...was a good way to wind down the day.

Breakfast was a typical French breakfast although I had orange juice which isn't always served...always go for the chocolat au lait...sure miss my skim milk from back home!

Serif provided me with directions that did not involve backtracking .9 km to GR65 but to go forward and rejoin it. He showed me a schematic which showed where there would be signs on how to rejoin le Chemin. In looking at the drawing I asked Seif if it was approximately 3 kms...he was quick to point out that the schematic was not drawn to scale and 15 minutes walking would be sufficient.

You have heard me comment on this type of shortcut on many occasions in past blogs...some of my most difficult moments have been in following this type do advice. I am not sure why however I trusted Seif...he seemed to be coming from a position of having actually walked this route.

It worked perfectly and in 15 minutes I was back on GR65 with the additional bonus of having walked through an interesting and different area.

This got me thinking about how I was walking my own Camino...whereas it is likely that millions have walked the The Puy route (1,000 years at a current average of 19,000 pelerins a year) and that each one of us has likely taken a slightly different it to visit a monument, church, an off road hebergement, a variant etc. Sort of like life I suppose but it struck me as cool to think that in a very small way my pelerinage was unique.

Now that comment plus the earlier one on body/mind adjusting to what is expected demonstrate just how deep I can go in thought...yeah sure...I spend hours while walking thinking of what might be my daughter's would say "Papa tu n'est pas drôle...tu juste penses que tu aie drôle!" 

Overall walking today was not too difficult...sure a few good elevation gains and drops...mostly coming into (drop) and out (gains) of villages. Some pictures from the day...

Quite foggy to start

Backyard pond

An old friend the GR65 symbol

Getting There!

Flower market

Lonely old cross - one of hundred's I see

A tough section of le Chemin
Nice walk into a village

A little hut...have not seen one like this before

Imagine the work...barb wire is wrapped around the rock!

Building has seen better days

Since leaving Le Puy en Velay I have not come across as many WW1 memorials however the one in Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole was particularly moving.

WW1 - Saint-Alban-sur-Limognole and surrounding villages - 109 WW1 soldiers died, WW2 - 7 died

WW1 - Aumont-Aubrac where 79 soldiers died in WW1, 5 died in WW2

Today was Sunday which added to a very quiet day. Other than when walking through villages I saw 2 people today over the 5 hours...both hunters. One of them had his rifle slung in front of he approached me with his cracked open his rifle barrel and took out the cartridge. Only later did I think that I should have given him a Canadian lapel pin, or many or them or even money if that's what he wanted!

Lunch was part of a baguette and a small pie with mushroom and ham filling both bought at a boulangerie in Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole. Boulangeries appear to be open Sunday morning's but Monday is out! For tomorrow lunch is a little skimpy so far...part of the baguette not eaten today and an apple. I am told the epicerie down the street is open Monday morning...sometimes!

My lunch on the side of le Chemin

As I walked into Aumont-Aubrac around 1:30 I saw a little bar was open...went in to see what they might have for food...came out with a chocolate bar and handing out 6 Canadian Lapel pins...2 of them to very much underage young boys under 10 for sure.

Just went out for a short walk around Aumont-Aubrac. Nothing is open of course however everything seems so interesting. I went to the church which of course dates back forever...this church felt much warmer and inviting than many therefore spent a little extra time there...incredible stained glass which is impossible to really capture in a photo.

Stained glass window in church

The sun came out for a while! Yahoo! I am really looking forward to tomorrow where I will walk on the Aubrac plateau. Christiane told me the walking is relatively easy with the first 10 kms tomorrow being typical Margueride scenery (what I have seen the past few days) and then all trees disappear and it's a totally different experience. Weather is very important...looks like I have a chance at a decent day however from past mountain experience I know things can change quickly up high...whatever it is should be special.

Future Pilgrims

I am staying in the Gite Chambre d'Hotes Les Sentiers Fleuries which is centrally located right on le Chemin. Christiane the owner let me in at 1:30 which was really great for me. The cost is 38 euros for The Gite and 47 euros for a single room, which I have chosen, both demi pension. Very modern interior with wifi and a computer available for pilgrim usage. Very impressed so far.

Outside front door of hebergement

My room


  1. Hi Guy, the Cele route is in the back of the Miam Miam Dodo. I have walked only 1 day of it - coming from Rocamadour. It is breath-takingly beautiful, but very quiet ; even during the busy season. The best is to find out at the tourist-office in Figeac about the conditions of this variant this time of the year (eg open gites). But you have still a few days before you arrive at Figeac. Bon route. Dolfina

  2. It's a shame you don't have a donate button! I'd definitely donate to this brilliant blog!
    I guess for now i'll settle for bookmarking and adding your RSS feed to my Google account.
    I look forward to fresh updates and will share this site with my Facesbook group.
    Talk soon!

    Feel free too visit my weblog ... verification documents