And the….

 …Botufumeiro swung at the 12:00 Pilgrim Mass. Fourth time arriving in Santiago de Compostela and the 4th time I have seen it swing. I am extremely fortunate as the Botufumeiro swings on a dozen religious days or when someone/group pays for it to swing.

In 2014 after the completing the Camino Frances I was overcome with emotion the first time I saw this. Today many attendees had their phones out recording however I just wanted to enjoy the moment.

Here is a YouTube short video of the Botufumeiro for anyone interested

Botofumeiro

On our way to the cathedral we passed through the plaza and met Sixteen from France and congratulated her. Off to the side facing the Cathedral…backpack still strapped on…sitting down with legs crossed was a young pelegrina.

Tears were flowing down her face…she kept wiping them away…finally just putting her head down and crying in a scarf. Whatever her reason for walking…whatever distance she had travelled…the stark emotion really captured what many feel upon completion of a Camino walk. 

I did not want to interfere with her moment as it was clear to me that this was not a physical issue…it was simply what she needed to experience.

Paulo and I lined up 11:10 am to enter the cathedral which was perfect timing as a good sized lineup was already ahead of us

We found one of the last remaining seats facing where the Botufumeiro swings. Pilgrim Mass seemed to go very quickly where the priest lists the countries of origin for pilgrims obtaining Compostela’s that day. Brazil 🇧🇷 and Canada 🇨🇦 were mentioned. 😊

Attending the mass one has no idea if the Botufumeiro will swing…if it does it will close the mass. Suddenly out of a side door a procession of tiraboleiros came out in their purple robes. The atmosphere immediately became electric…and the Botufumeiro swung.

Other pilgrim walkers we saw at different times today and congratulated were…

- Sarah from Vancouver whom we met as she was walking in to Santiago de Compostela 

- Cele and Kirsten from Germany

- Sarah from Taiwan

- Victoria from Lithuania 

- Marie from Calgary

- Qu’on from Belgium

- Derrick from Netherlands

- Roger from Switzerland 

- Anna from Germany

- Alex from Germany

It’s incredible to have met so many pilgrim walkers along the way…and to be able to exchange congratulations when everyone has achieved their goal! 

Prior to the mass we lined up at the Pilgrim’s Office to obtain our Compostela’s which are certificates for completing a Camino walk of at least 100kms into Santiago de Compostela.

Holy the process which now includes QR codes which pre-fill key information about the Camino walk is so much smoother than 2014! In and out in 15 minutes or so.

Lining up Paulo saw a notice about a Distance Certificate. I joked with Paulo that 331 kms really did not warrant a special certificate…he agreed…then proceeded without my knowing to obtain one.

As I was getting my Compostela I thought what the heck I will get one as well! We laughed when we compared what we each did!

Paulo was not impressed with the picture I took of him which somehow makes him look like a stunned midget. I thought it was perfect 🤣 Sarah (Taiwan) is a professional photographer and she was in tears laughing and pointed out multiple flaws with my picture taking abilities.

Naturally I am so very proud of this outstanding picture of Paulo. 👏

A few things to followup at home.

- I think I need…ok I want… my own stamp like Hob and Deb. Both my brother Marc and nephew Jacques are very capable artists. Maybe one of them will design an appropriate stamp for me. 🙏

- My Tilley hat absolutely reeks…I have the poorest sense of smell ever but the hat stinks. The last time I (well it was really Paulo) washed a Tilley on the 2022 Camino Primitivo it was a disaster.

So when I get home I will contact my good friend Ken who is an expert Tilley hat washer and ask if I can drive to his home an hour away to get expert help. Ken has in the past said sure however he has cautioned there are NO guarantees. Well nothing in life is guaranteed but I have faith in Ken’s abilities!

- Suunto Race Watch mystery and miracle turnaround! Why did this happen? In the months leading to the Camino Norte walk I fervently tested my new watch. I finally had it down to a science. Use the Sunnto to be the “official” km tracking and use Wikilocs on my phone to follow pre loaded Wikiloc tracks and hear beeps when off track.

What could go wrong…well many many things! First Paulo shows up with his fancy upgraded Garmin watch. No big deal…I have a Suunto!

Next the fellow that pre recorded the Wikiloc tracks simply liked walking on highways and not the Camino Norte actual routes so beeps were useless.

However Suunto was really in the dog house for walking days 1 - 7 as it was mysteriously way off both Wikilocs and Garmin tracking - ugh 😩 78.4% of actual.

Then on day 8 the pattern mysteriously shifted and for days 8 -  12 Suunto was 99.3% of actual 😊. I have no idea why as I recalibrated…as per instructions…on day 2! So I am curious as to why this happened. I will likely never find out.

However one thing I know for sure Suunto is the equal or better than Garmin 😊😊😊.

- Paulo and 15 year old son Pedro are considering walking the Camino Portuguese from Porto to Santiago de Compostela in 2026. Paulo has asked if I would consider creating a “plan” for them. Yes that sounds like fun 🤩 and will certainly gladly spend a few 😉 hours doing so. I so hope they have this experience together!

Tomorrow on to Porto…a day there then back home 🥰.

Sitting here I am thinking about how extremely fortunate I am. I have long known that one of those good fortunes is having the ability and time available for these long walks…a brief summary as I reflect on this.

Camino walks

- 2013  Via Jacobi Switzerland from Rorschach to Geneva

- 2013 Via Gebennensis France from Geneva to Le Puy en Velay

- 2013 Via Podiensis France from Le Puy en Velay to St Jean Pied de Port

- 2014 Camino Frances Spain from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela 

- 2014 Camino Finistère Spain from Santiago de Compostela to Finistère

- 2018 Camino Portuguese Portugal from Lisbon to Santarem; Porto to Santiago de Compostela 

- 2022 Camino Primitivo Spain from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela

- 2022 Camino San Salvador Spain from Leon to Oviedo

- 2025 Bray Celtic Camino Ireland from Bray to Dublin 

- 2025 Camino Norte Spain from Aviles to Santiago de Compostela 

Non Camino Walks 

- 1996 Khumbu Valley trek Nepal from Phaplu to Dimboche two days from Everest Base camp and back

- 2015 Kumano Kodo Nakahechni route Japan

- 2015 Thames River walk England from Oxford to Windsor

- 2023/2024 PEI Island Walk Canada circumference of PEI from/to Charlottetown

- 2023 UK Wainwright Coast to Coast walk England St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay

- 2025 Kerry Way Ireland from/to Killarney

Next Long Walk

This planned walk is one that I am so very much looking forward to. Very brief details are a circular route through the Cotwolds area of England from/to Moreton-in-Marsh in May 2026. 72 kms over 7 days with an extra day in 3 locations…all organized by Mickledore Travel.

The group Dawn and me, Carol and Leonard who are longtime friends of ours dating back to 1976 3rd year University Stats class where I noticed/talked to this goofy looking fellow Leonard form this amazing group!

A couple of photos likely 1980-1983 circa on canoe trips. Carol and Leonard were experts…Dawn became proficient very quickly…I was/am unbelievably woeful! 🤣

Not sure if I will be blogging or not on this long walk…TBD 😊

Leonard, Carol, Me, Dawn

Me in trouble again!!!

Camino Norte - October 16, 2025 Day 12 A Calle de Ferreiros to Santiago de Compostela

Daily Information  Distance:   32.2 Kms    Elevation G/L meters: 426:(515) Cumulative Information  Planned Distance: 318 Kms Actual Distance: 335 Kms Actual/Planned Distance: 105.3% Strava Link for Day 12

Strava link - Day 12

No not a typo…some of you reading this are likely thinking “I knew they would walk it in!” 😊 We walked 32.2kms today and are in Santiago de Compostela having walked an average of 30.8 kms daily for the past 4 days. This was not the plan as the day started however…

4th time walking into Santiago de Compostela…sure feels great!

This morning started with a firm plan to stick to the plan 20km today and 10 tomorrow early morning. 

Interestingly the highlights focus on a few new pilgrim meetings…something I did not expect at this late stage.

- Jasmine from England who is walking a Camino for the first time from Sarria ~ 100kms to earn a Compostela. She is recently retired and was to walk with a friend who had to bow out. Jasmine just decided to strike out on her own…use baggage services and walk 10-15kms per day! Kudos to her as she is clearly enjoying the experience!

Early morning photos

Next had a chance to talk to Peter from Kamloops BC. Peter is

from Ireland 🇮🇪…the county of Cavan. Immediately I launched into my Ireland stories and “do you know John L from Templemore county of  Tipperary?”.  He replied that’s where they train police recruits on the National training center. Holy finally a connection. “John L was leading that training effort and Carmel L worked there for 40+ years. I am not totally sure however I think Carmel retired as the head of the entire Police Academy!” 😊

Peter thought for a minute “well perhaps I don’t know them…I did leave Ireland 42 years ago to live in Canada” Oh well I tried.

This is where I think back to a few days ago meeting Hob and Deb. Hob is the best story teller I have ever met…totally compelling in every way! From here on in I am striving to be a “mini mini Hob” telling stories..☺️

Finally Andrew from you guessed it Ireland county of Kildare! Of course my recent education in Ireland regarding how to pour a Guiness came in super handy. Andrew a very pleasant 31 year old actually appeared to listen to my story…so then I poured it on with the Guiness inspector knowledge.

Both Paulo and I had individual time walking with Andrew…IT software engineer so my late career IT project work (lone Business person trying desperately to understand and not get snowed by IT analysts and of course system architects) came in big time handy! I have no idea what Paulo and Andrew talked about…probably Legal stuff 🥱

Andrew is walking from Sarria…first time…and today was going for it 40kms to Santiago de Compostela. We provided what knowledge we have and Andrew seemed clearly interested…his objective is to walk with his 60+ father on a Camino path…perhaps the Camino Portuguese. I so encouraged him to go for it relaying that my brother Marc and I walked with Pa in Nepal in 1976 when he was 74 years old! Priceless

Memory!

Lunch break with Andrew in O Pedrouzo and then…

Leaving lunch Paulo and I were walking together and I said something like “we have a very good plan 20 km today…10 tomorrow”…then “geez we are walking well…Andrew is going all way!”…then “I am sure Santiago de Compostela is fully booked…right?”

Paulo “you want to go to Santiago de Compostela today right!” Me “Would be cool 😎 “. A couple of minutes later Paulo “they have a room at the San Martin Hospederia…do we go?” Me big smile “let’s do it”.

The rest of the way was an absolute joy…Santiago de Compostela is awaiting. Later met Anna from Germany who we also met during the day and walked with Anna and Andrew through the tunnel to the sound of bagpipes into the square…an incredible place! Cannot properly describe the feeling after a long walk!

Now we have a full day in Santiago de Compostela tomorrow…no walking, pilgrim mass at 12:00…will I see the Botufumeiro a 4th time?…obtain our Compostela’s…do a little shopping…hopefully see some Camino Norte friends walking in. Interestingly Nancy my sister in law has friends who should be arriving tomorrow from the Camino Portuguese…would be nice to meet them!

I will likely publish a wrap up blogpost before leaving Saturday morning at 9:00 leaving for Porto for a couple of nights before coming home 🥰

This has been a really fun Camino walk!

Before some final pictures for the day something a little different!

Funny for the day

Blogposts can’t all be about the day’s walk. Sometimes a little break is needed and a good long time (he is older than me 🙂) friend Cal who has sent some creative funny emails over the various long walks has done it again.

Cal has a PHD in something esoteric like “Object oriented blah blah”, an author of multiple AI themed books, a country homesteader with many stories of fending off wildlife, university professor, father of 3 daughters (like me 🙂), pretend golfer (like me) and worst of all former System Architect! I include his email with Cal’s permission.

I will only add one thing. My brother Marc and I hiked a 3 day backpacking trip in the Canadian Rockies many years ago. Yea we came across bear 💩 on the trail. We had freeze dried foods with us…we almost starved after the first day 🤣 looking for berries to eat etc. So I would MUCH rather walk and eat well then not walk and eat freeze dried food. 😳

“Algunos consejos tardíos

HI GUY,  (Why do I feel I should shout? Because you're far away? Because of your age? In case it's a poor Internet connection in the wilderness?) 🤷🏼

I had a sudden revelation this morning. As I was reading your daily confession of your latest mad exploit, I remembered that I hadn't passed on my words of wisdom before your departure. So, here's my rather late advice...

There's an easier way than walking to travel through distant lands .

And, of course, I'm not simply offering Googled, untested advice. I'm speaking from recent, extensive experience. Several weeks ago, we made an extraordinary, 14-day journey all the way to Calgary and back using some amazing, new technology we acquired. It's called a "travel trailer". More specifically, ours is a luxurious, 2025, 17-foot ProLite Classic trailer, snugly equipped with a queen-size bed, kitchen, dinette, bathroom and shower. And we pulled it with our 2024 Toyota Sienna, often referred to as a "vehicle". Very little walking was required. Oh, well. It's too late now.

I will admit to one downside, however. Our method of transport was not accompanied by the 5-star meals that you and Paulo seem to be enjoying. To keep our trailer weight and meal prep effort to a minimum, we even packed and ate a sample of freeze-dried, hiking food. You know, the kind I would expect outdoor folks like you would be consuming. Ours was crème brulé - just add water, stir, and wait a few minutes. Mighty fine. Be sure to ask for it tomorrow evening.

I sincerely apologize for not telling you of these modern innovations prior to you, yet again, embarking on a walk for massive distances through wild and dangerous territory in a foreign land, daily having to listen to the walking woes of other, vehicle-and-trailer-deprived travellers.

Oh well, take care and try to enjoy yourself, regardless.

Cal”

Camino Norte - October 15, 2025 Day 11 Sobrado dos Moxes to A Calle de Ferrieros

Daily Information

Distance:   31.1 Kms   

Elevation G/L meters: 437:(571)

Cumulative Information 

Planned Distance: 287.9 Kms

Actual Distance: 299.1 Kms

Actual/Planned Distance: 103.9%

Strava link for Day 11

Stava Route - Day 11

Weather wise another perfect sunny day…ok was really pretty hot 🥵 as we were finishing for the day. Another strong day for both of us at 31.1kms with some decent ascents along the way!

So far the planning has held…we are feeling fortunate on many fronts!

The 13 day walking planning was heavily front end loaded. Our average walking distances for the first 11 days is 27.2 kms.

Injury report: Nothing of note. Paulo has a decent size blister on his big toe which apparently is not an issue walking. He will have to decide tonight “pop it or not”…

Weather wise we had some drizzle a week ago however nothing since. This is Galicia where rain is the norm…however rain is on its way post walk! Talk about timing it!

Last evening post walk I was writing the blogpost for the day…without the usual oomph! I had been reflecting on a brief exchange with a fellow pilgrim walker that simply did not go as well as I would have liked. I had misunderstood something and as such felt “Guy that was not smooth!”.

Paulo had mentioned that there were Vesper prayers at the Sobrado Monastery at 7:00…he had fallen asleep in the room. I had just written the piece about “darn missed and opportunity to stay at the monastery.”

6:37 - light came on “Paulo let’s go to the Vesper prayers”. He was surprised but ok let’s go.

It was a really good decision. No sooner had we set foot in this beautiful monastery that we were ushered into the prayer chapel.

What followed was 45 minutes of alternate chants and complete silence by 6 monks. It was quite an exceptional experience…what I remember most is the long moments of complete silence. Rarely do we experience this in our daily lives…it really is special.

After the Vespers we had a chance to walk around this beautiful monastery…some pictures taken by Paulo are shown below. Special thanks to a blogpost reader Rachel who sent me a message the day we were walking to Sobrado de Montes encouraging me to not miss the Monastery! 

After the Monastery visit…spirits lifted…we shared a pizza 

Today was another varied and mixed terrain day in Galicia. Some very peaceful walking on country trails/roads mixed with some highway walking. I thought a dangerous animal dog encounter was in the offing as a large dog was on the road barking ahead of us. Tail was down and wagging so we just went on our way around him/her without any problem.

One sole new pilgrim meeting - Anna from Germany

Qu’on (Belgium), Paulo, Anna (Germany), Derrick (Netherlands), me

A relatively early morning start at 8:00

A break along the way

As we were nearing our destination for the day we came upon an elderly pilgrim who appeared to be struggling walking up a hill. Paulo stopped to talk to her and mentioned to me that she was from France so I asked her a number of questions.

She indicated that she was simply having trouble climbing…had been ill…and her husband was up a ways. She thanked us for stopping and we mentioned that we would be talking to her husband. I spoke to him and clearly stated that his wife was having trouble. He mentioned this has been going on for 2 weeks. I suggested he start walking to meet her…honestly don’t know if that happened.

This is a situation where they probably should stop for the day and get transportation to their accommodation. Felt somewhat badly leaving without knowing outcome…not sure what husband’s thinking would lead to.

As we entered Arzua we merged with the last leg of the Camino Frances. I expected hordes of pilgrim walkers as was the case on the Camino Primitivo in 2022 as we entered Melide. So far this has not been the case…perhaps tomorrow will be different.

I also received a very uplifting and funny email from a good friend. 

Tomorrow on to Lacacolla 20km and then a final 10km day to Santiago de Compostela where we intend to get in early…get our Compostela’s and then attend the noon Pilgrims mass (must line up around 11:15).

I certainly hope to meet up with a number of new friends on Friday Oct 17th whom we have met over the last 2 weeks…always a special moment.

Reflecting on the long Camino Norte walk has already started…to date things have gone very well! Paulo has suggested a similar length 2027 walk…ok would be 70…TBD will see what life’s circumstances allow. If for some reason it is not possible the 2025 Camino Norte walk will have been one heck of a positive way to bow out!

A few pictures taken today…

Some may wonder how Paulo and I share a room. The following two pictures show what I think is a very fair way to split the available space. The first picture is where I can spread out my stuff…the second is Paulo’s space ☺️